The first thing I noticed about the Can-Back top was
it's rugged frame assembly, and how this unique design incorporated an
optional rack system for attaching a roof basket, canoes, mountain
bikes, off-road gear, etc.. I was also looking for a top that
could withstand the
Colorado winters as well as being able to take the punishment of off road abuse.
One of the main reasons we drive a Blazer or Jimmy in the first place is
the functionality and rugged good looks they provide, and the top should
be no exception. After reading about all the options and the
quality of the fabric used at Can-Back's web site, I decided the Pachyderm
model was the way to go.
Covered in Sunbrella fabric to cover over the structure, this soft-top is built to take on
just about anything you can throw at it. This is a premier, marine
grade, 100% solution dyed, woven acrylic fabric. It's some very tough stuff, and is proven
against water, wind and rain, sunlight and fading, rot, mildew and atmospheric chemicals.
What you also get is ease of care, great looks, and a knockout appearance.
Two models are available for all popular full and mid size pickup
trucks, the first generation 84-89 4Runners, and the 76-91 Blazers.
models can take on a heavy duty, all steel accessory roof rack system that supports 350
pounds of payload on the Can-Back, and 200 pounds on the Pachyderm model.
• Heavy duty, all stainless
steel hoops and spreader bars with
black powder coated base
frame. (Can-Back model)
• Heavy duty, all steel,
black powder coat finished
hoops, spreader bars and base
frame. (Pachyderm model)
• All weather, marine-grade
SUNBRELLA top fabric.
• Roll-up front, side, and
rear panels allowing 360
degree access to your bed.
• Truck cab profile
eliminates wind resistance
at highway speeds.
Roof rack and 200 lbs.
Roof rack and 350 lbs. (Can-Back model)
The first thing I noticed was how well it was packaged from Can-Back,
all the parts were bubble wrapped or shrink wrapped, It must have taken
them more time to pack it up than it did to make the top itself.
All of the parts came clearly marked for easy assembly, even the most
novice person would have an effortless time putting it together.
As you unpack the boxes you will notice the tig welded joints, baked-on black powder coat finishes
and the high
quality of all the parts.
With any kind of mechanical ability at all, installation is a
piece of cake. All instructions are included with the top and are
broken down into 2 basic steps:
1. Build up the frame and bolt to Blazer
|Lay out the side rails,
foam side down, on a clean flat surface. The side rails
are placed with the snaps facing outside the bed and the cleats
facing inward. Next place the #1 hoop, starting at the
front of the bed on the pre-determined mounting points and
loosely tighten, repeat for hoops #2 and #3. Loosely bolt
spreader bars from hoop #1 to hoop #2, then from hoop #2 to hoop
#3. Position the spreader bars to locate the roof rack
either towards the cab or towards the tailgate.
|Next, attach cab
connector to back of cab. The cab connector is placed so
the edge with the snaps closest to it fits against the cab
(loosen the cab connector L brackets if necessary to help in
bolt hole alignment). Using the bolts supplied, bolt cab
connector to cab starting with the 4 factory holes across the
top then the one on each side, always making sure the cab
connector seal is making good contact with the cab.
|With the frame bolted
together, lift onto bed rails making sure you have cleaned the
contact surface. You can now attach the side rails to the
cab connector with the cab straps using the machine threaded
snap to bolt the two together, then tighten. Make sure all
the bolts are in their correct locations, then tighten the frame
completely. Remove the top screws in the side panels to
gain access to the underside of the bed rail. Mark the
frame side rails with a center punch where you want to position
the 4 bolts that will attach the frame to the bed rails.
When you are satisfied with your choice of mounting location,
use a c-clamp to clamp the frame to the bed rail and drill four
3/8" or slightly larger holes through the frame rail and
the bed rail, then use the supplied hardware to fasten the two