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View Full Version : should of bolted flexplate to torque converter before tighting tranny to block???


down4thakrown
06-21-2005, 04:27 PM
should i of bolted the t/c to the flexplate before i tightend down the tranny bolts?? because i went to put in the torque converter bolts to the flex plate but the t/c is binded up with the flexplate so tight i cant even spin it. i went to look on my k10 350/350/203 to see if maybe the t/c wasnt on all the way and it was the same distance from the tranny housing to t/c as my blazer 350/350/205. when i dropped the motor in there was a decent gap between the engine and tranny so i tightend it up to close gap. it looks like it might even be bending the flexplate back. there touchin all the way around.

dyeager535
06-21-2005, 04:33 PM
Your converter isn't seated all the way.

Only other possibility is that you replaced the torque converter and it was screwed up when it was built/rebuilt, but I'd put that pretty much out of your mind.

I always tie the converter back with string when I'm putting it up to the motor, although a bungee cord will work too.

edit: I do this when the transmission is on the ground, it is much easier to feel the converter seat all the way flush when doing it that way. From the trannies I dealt with, the converter FULLY SEATED, not as bolted up, will not let your fingers fit between it and the bottom of the transmission housing.

down4thakrown
06-21-2005, 04:35 PM
i used the same converter and tranny with the engine i had in there before but, what worries me is when i did the tranny and tcase swap i didnt do the motor mounts and when i put the new engine in i changed them because the old ones just pretty fell out and there was no rubber left.

79chevyk10
06-21-2005, 04:43 PM
Like stated earlier, your torque convertor is not seated all the way, sounds like you only got the input and stator shafts ingaged but not the oil pump "notch". Just remove the trans and rotate the torque convertor until you feel it engage, there should be about 1/4 to 1/2" of slack between the flexplate and torque convertor mounting tabs.

Russell
06-21-2005, 04:44 PM
I can promise you that it is a problem with your converter not being seated -- I did the exact same thing when I installed my TH400 for the first time.

Support the tranny and take the bolts off the bellhousing, slide the tranny back a bit. Then rotate the converter while pushing it towards the tranny. Betcha it will clunk in one more step :)

Some people did tell me there was a possiblity I may have wrecked the pump plate on my tranny doing this, but I didn't wreck anything. However, there is always a small chance you may have, so make sure that you watch for any fluid coming out of the tranny next time you start it.

down4thakrown
06-21-2005, 05:00 PM
i hope so, i just tried to turn the motor by usin a socket on the harmonic balancer and couldnt move it. just tightend the balancer. :blush: but i hardly budged the bolt as soon as i noticed it wasnt movin i stoped. i was worried there for a second because i thought since i drilled the holes for the tcase xmember when i the motor mounts were bad that the new motor mounts moved the motor back some and it wouldnt work without movein the tranny back some :laugh:

4X4HIGH
06-21-2005, 06:57 PM
As stated above, the convertor is not installed all the way into the tranny pump. It is VERY likely that you have damaged the tranny pump and or torque convertor. I would recommend that you completely remove the tranny and have a shop look at the convertor and also inside the front pump seal area and make sure before you put it all back together again.

down4thakrown
06-21-2005, 10:53 PM
i would rather have the one in my backyard rebuilt be fore i take this one to the shop. unless its cheap to have this one fixed. the bell housing looks like one of the bolts was left in while pullin motor and i got a good core in the yard, any idea on how much to fix the pump?

dyeager535
06-22-2005, 08:30 AM
IMO, I wouldn't worry about the pump/converter. The pump drive tangs are solid steel, (albeit in an aluminum pump body IIRC) but with the load distributed as it would be if the converter was pressed aganinst the flexplate, the flexplate likely warped with the increased load. Without turning the transmission/engine while bound up, I doubt you hurt it.

You could pull the converter off and look at the stator/input shaft splines and see if they appear damaged, but if you got the converter in far enough to mount to the engine, I believe the stator and input splines were both lined up correctly, so it shouldn't have hurt them at all.

You would also be able to look at the hub on the converter to see if those are damaged, since those are what would have been hitting the pump drive tangs, but again, solid steel to solid steel, neither of them probable did any visible damage, instead, the flexplate was the weak link.

TrcksR4ME
06-22-2005, 08:36 AM
Just loosen the tranny and seat the T.C. already. 99% chance it is fine and will work once you get it seated...just dooooo it :grin:

diesel4me
06-22-2005, 09:57 AM
You would not happen to be putting an automatic tranny behind a motor that was in front of a manual tranny are you?...if so,the pilot bushing in the crankshaft must first be removed!--I did this once during a motor swap--had to pull the tranny completely out and fight the bushing for 2 hours before I got it out! :doah: :angry1: ...if not,its probably just not in the pump all the way,as suggested--or perhaps the "button" on the converter that goes into the crank (where the pilot bushing goes on a manual) is misaligned enough not to allow it to slip in and seat properly... :crazy: