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Along with my new motor I want to install new guages. I've seen some good setups but I want to know of anyone installing directly into .040 aluminum.61616

I basically want to cut out the very edge of the factory dash or just replace the whole removeable section with aluminum. I have intentions of cutting out the holes for the heater controls and the headlight switch, and , the radio is already installed straight to the metal portion of the dash. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated.

Oh by the way, I plan to use 5" Auto Meter ProComp series in dash tach and speedometer and 2 5/8" mechanical ProComp Oil press, water temp, volts, and fuel level. Mabye a trans temp and mabye a Fuel press with an Isolator(for inside the cab):confused:

I just saw It!!, RYOKEN has a very similar setup. Dang , that looks cool!!!

Along with my new motor I want to install new guages. I've seen some good setups but I want to know of anyone installing directly into .040 aluminum.61616

I basically want to cut out the very edge of the factory dash or just replace the whole removeable section with aluminum. I have intentions of cutting out the holes for the heater controls and the headlight switch, and , the radio is already installed straight to the metal portion of the dash. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated.

Oh by the way, I plan to use 5" Auto Meter ProComp series in dash tach and speedometer and 2 5/8" mechanical ProComp Oil press, water temp, volts, and fuel level. Mabye a trans temp and mabye a Fuel press with an Isolator(for inside the cab):confused:

What year is your truck? I'm not familiar with the differences in the older ones compared to my '86. But, I noticed that your dash pad doesn't hang over the gauge panel like it does on mine, which I kind of like...

Anyway, I've thought of doing exactly what you're talking about. It's not 100% yet, but I'm holding out to see how much Ryoken's dash panels will cost once he can get them into production. His design can easily be made without the cutouts for the A/C dash vent, the heater & A/C controls, or a radio cutout.

So I'm planning on running 4 gauges on the left (like stock) and 4 more on the opposite side. I'll possibly use the stock radio location for switches or something. The radio and A/C controls will be relocated to a custom center console.

Are you planning to just get plain aluminum sheeting, cut it and bolt it on like one of the overlays from LMC?

If you're not tied to Aluminum, I found some really good ABS plastic in black. It's in 4'x8' sheets I believe. My brother buys it in bulk. It has a similar textured finish as the stock dash panel. I'm considering cutting out the gauge holes in my dash and gluing or "plastic welding" this stuff in its place...

I just saw It!!, RYOKEN has a very similar setup. Dang , that looks cool!!!

Beat me to it... :p:

Ryoken is THE MAN with composites fabrication! :bow:

What year is your truck?

1976

As far as Aluminum, yes...I'm tied to it. It is in ready supply for me and I know of enough people able to work with it that I have help. I just wanted Ideas for leaving the heater controls in and the headlight switch. The only other thing I' need help with is where the flat aluminum goes around the steering column. The factory gear is molded to it. If you have seen LMC's pics you'll see what I'm talking about.

1976

As far as Aluminum, yes...I'm tied to it. It is in ready supply for me and I know of enough people able to work with it that I have help. I just wanted Ideas for leaving the heater controls in and the headlight switch. The only other thing I' need help with is where the flat aluminum goes around the steering column. The factory gear is molded to it. If you have seen LMC's pics you'll see what I'm talking about.

So you basically want the whole dash panel recreated in aluminum, not just overlays?

Kinda, I want it to appear factory but I have intentions of using the angling rings AM sells to get the right look.

Plus the factory tach is stuck at the rpm in the pic above.

Plus the factory tach is stuck at the rpm in the pic above.

Those tach clusters are still pretty desirable even not working so don't just pitch it when you start your new setup ;)

Kinda, I want it to appear factory but I have intentions of using the angling rings AM sells to get the right look.

Very cool idea... I'm picturing it in my head, and I think it'd be pretty slick.

Plus the factory tach is stuck at the rpm in the pic above.
name a price, id consider buying it. cant be too sure being in college and all.

I just saw It!!, RYOKEN has a very similar setup. Dang , that looks cool!!!

Thanks for the props fellas... :bow:

I really am working on getting one out into production.... I ran into a little setback with the mold... have to redo a few things on it as the first layups wheren't coming out quite right...

It's been a difficult project..

Mine could be duped in aluminum with some fancy TIG work... The whole angled panel-thing is what makes it so challenging..

Thanks for the props fellas... :bow:

I really am working on getting one out into production.... I ran into a little setback with the mold... have to redo a few things on it as the first layups wheren't coming out quite right...

It's been a difficult project..

Mine could be duped in aluminum with some fancy TIG work... The whole angled panel-thing is what makes it so challenging..

I think your design is best...but if one were doing it on the cheap, would a flat panel look decent do you think? Like, the gauges are mounted on 3 planes as is (the 4 small gauges on one, speedo/tach one, and the vent, heater controls and radio on the 3rd). What about an insert that was one large flat plane? It'd be different, but the 1st Gen's had everything mounted at the same angle.

Just thinking out loud. I still like yours best.

well if you take the panel off so that you can see the metal frame underneath, its all one flat shot all the way across. my thoughts are to put everything on that plane to make it smooth. verify? verify?

well if you take the panel off so that you can see the metal frame underneath, its all one flat shot all the way across. my thoughts are to put everything on that plane to make it smooth.

There would be one benefit to doing it that way... You would have no limits on gauge placement. For instance, you could have the speedo dead-center on the dash

My thoughts, and I thought about this on the way home this morning, were to make the panel out of one piece of aluminum, then make the two bends for the "wings". The bends follow a verticle line up the dash, so it should be possible to make that bend. The fact that the bends are pretty shallow should also help. As for the steering column area, I am still working out a way to do this area, and retain the stock plastic molding under the column.

My thoughts, and I thought about this on the way home this morning, were to make the panel out of one piece of aluminum, then make the two bends for the "wings". The bends follow a verticle line up the dash, so it should be possible to make that bend. The fact that the bends are pretty shallow should also help. As for the steering column area, I am still working out a way to do this area, and retain the stock plastic molding under the column.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

My plan will be going into Autocad this weekend, but I am thinking that I will match the stainless trim panels that LMC has for the vents. Basically horizontal slots for the vents, but I may eliminate my upper vent, since it really doesn't do much, and add the second voltmeter and a trans temp. I will try to get it designed this weekend, then upload some plans early next week. Maybe it will help someone, maybe someone will tell me that it won't work, either way I will get some good tips to help the design along. I really like Ryoken's design, but my budget can't afford them. Plus I really want to keep the Silverado style trim. I am also thinking about a way to engine turn the aluminum so that it will have a unique finish.

My plan will be going into Autocad this weekend, but I am thinking that I will match the stainless trim panels that LMC has for the vents. Basically horizontal slots for the vents, but I may eliminate my upper vent, since it really doesn't do much, and add the second voltmeter and a trans temp. I will try to get it designed this weekend, then upload some plans early next week. Maybe it will help someone, maybe someone will tell me that it won't work, either way I will get some good tips to help the design along. I really like Ryoken's design, but my budget can't afford them. Plus I really want to keep the Silverado style trim. I am also thinking about a way to engine turn the aluminum so that it will have a unique finish.

If by "upper vent" you mean the one above the heat and A/C controls, then I agree, I'll be eliminating mine myself. If anything, the other vents will blow a little stronger.

I can't wait to get the mechanical out of the way so I can start working on my interior. :woot:

I am doing things as I can afford them, and sometimes (like my dash), when I get free parts. I am slowly getting enough cash to get new gears, an ARB or two, and new springs and shocks. Once I can get that stuff done, it will be time to start picking up body parts and paint, then I will probably get the remainder of the interior done. Just takes time and patience.

Did some checking and I can pick up a piece of 6061 that is big enough to cover the whole dash cover plate for about 62 dollars. Compared to the price of a "new" one from LMC, that is a huge savings. This would be .25" alloy, with a decent finish that could easily be polished, or done in the finish I am planning. I will be doing some plans this weekend, then we will see if it is doable or not. It is probably a little thicker than needed, but should fill the dash nicely, plus it will allow me to recess my gauges a bit.

Did some checking and I can pick up a piece of 6061 that is big enough to cover the whole dash cover plate for about 62 dollars. Compared to the price of a "new" one from LMC, that is a huge savings. This would be .25" alloy, with a decent finish that could easily be polished, or done in the finish I am planning. I will be doing some plans this weekend, then we will see if it is doable or not. It is probably a little thicker than needed, but should fill the dash nicely, plus it will allow me to recess my gauges a bit.

Make sure to post pics! Even if it's just in CAD form, I'd love to see where you're headed with this.

I did 3 panels with 1/8" aluminum for easy access. Originally plasma'd out one piece and bent to contour but felt 3 panels would make troubleshooting, changing etc easier. My radio is in dash vent and the upper right side of panel has my arb and some accessory switches now. I cant afford the sweetness of Ryokens work, thanks ex-wife:mad:.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj187/mr250twostroke/dashbox037.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj187/mr250twostroke/dashbox043.jpg
Took alot of trimming and I used the 3 3/8" tach/spedo and 2 1/16" on the rest:D.
Dustin

I did 3 panels with 1/8" aluminum for easy access. Originally plasma'd out one piece and bent to contour but felt 3 panels would make troubleshooting, changing etc easier. My radio is in dash vent and the upper right side of panel has my arb and some accessory switches now. I cant afford the sweetness of Ryokens work, thanks ex-wife:mad:.

Took alot of trimming and I used the 3 3/8" tach/spedo and 2 1/16" on the rest:D.
Dustin


That looks badass man!

i like your display mount.:D

That is a really nice setup, and it shows me that I can mount my fuel gauge between the speedo and tach. I had already been planning on using the same size gauges you have there. I just felt making the fuel gauge a little more visible would be a good idea. Thanks for showing us that.

Edit: In fact that is the same line of gauges that I am getting. I liked that everything that I wanted was available in the same style.

That's almost exactly what I'm talking about!!!!! That is the most accurate pic I've seen to date. Only a few differences. I want to retain the headlight switch and mod the lower keft for any accessory lighting. I want to keep the upper right for winch controls or other accessories.
Great job on the metal work!!!!

Are the tach and speedo 5" or 3 3/8"?

I really am working on getting one out into production.... I ran into a little setback with the mold... have to redo a few things on it as the first layups wheren't coming out quite right...
let me know when you do, that dash is shweet! also, could you explain what all the switches are for where the headlight switch should be? i think those are pretty neat.

Well, considering this is a dash insert thread I guess I wont be dragging this too off topic...

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x210/ryoken-ovd/interior9.jpg

The 5 Contura rockers to the left are for left to right. interior lights (off/floor/floor and overhead), wipers (off/low/hi), auxilary lights (off/front/rear), electric fans (off/thermal on/both on), running lights (off/parking/headlights) (oldschool foot hi-beam switch on floor)

The other side of the column is set up for the same switches...

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x210/ryoken-ovd/interior8.jpg

those will be for the winch, parallel switch, heater, etc...

cool... neat idea, i want a similar set of switches controlling all my blazers functions. hijack off

That looks badass man!

Thank you very much:D! Also for the forum sir :thumb:.

i like your display mount.:D

No shortage of those:haha:!

That is a really nice setup, and it shows me that I can mount my fuel gauge between the speedo and tach. I had already been planning on using the same size gauges you have there. I just felt making the fuel gauge a little more visible would be a good idea. Thanks for showing us that.

Edit: In fact that is the same line of gauges that I am getting. I liked that everything that I wanted was available in the same style.

My pleasure:D.

That's almost exactly what I'm talking about!!!!! That is the most accurate pic I've seen to date. Only a few differences. I want to retain the headlight switch and mod the lower keft for any accessory lighting. I want to keep the upper right for winch controls or other accessories.
Great job on the metal work!!!!

Are the tach and speedo 5" or 3 3/8"?

Thanks again guys:D! 3 3/8's.
Dustin