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Did they all come with the metal trim on the passenger side, regardless of whether A/C was installed?

I'd like to find one that's just perfectly smooth on that side, from a non-A/C truck...

They all have a trim panel regardless of AC or not. My buddies 79 is a non-a/c vehicle, but it still has the trim panel there. Best bet would be to use a smooth filler panel, or do like my other buddy did, and fiberglass the whole dash, filling that area to make it smooth.

Did they all come with the metal trim on the passenger side, regardless of whether A/C was installed?

I'd like to find one that's just perfectly smooth on that side, from a non-A/C truck...
They all had some sort of trim on them. I've been looking for some smooth trim for a long time, haven't found it yet. Every bit of it has a little edge to it !!

Thanks guys... I was actually hoping to find something that had no trim, nor any area for the trim.

There was a post a while back, a reprint of a magazine article. The owner of the C/K had installed round gauges about the left-passenger A/C vent. It looked really good. Thing is, I want round A/C vents, so I was going to copy his installation method.

The location of the vents would be the same as stock, just a different type vent. Hence the need for a solid dash panel. I've thought about doing a fiberglass dash, but I don't know anything about using it. I'd end up covering it in something to retain a stock look if I did, but probably incorporate built-in speaker pods up where the 3.5's go, but make it fit like 4's or 5.25's...

When my buddy did his in fiberglass, he pulled the dash pad out, sanded, fiberglassed, sanded, then painted. It took him a little over a day, but it looks really nice. You can't really tell that it is not the original dash, except for the lack of the area you are wanting to get rid of. It is nice and smooth in that area, and he has a radio or scanner mounted where the vent is in mine.

When my buddy did his in fiberglass, he pulled the dash pad out, sanded, fiberglassed, sanded, then painted. It took him a little over a day, but it looks really nice. You can't really tell that it is not the original dash, except for the lack of the area you are wanting to get rid of. It is nice and smooth in that area, and he has a radio or scanner mounted where the vent is in mine.

So... I'm not sure I'm understanding 100%. The dash pad. He pulled it, removed the padding/upholstery, then what? Soaked the fiberboard under-section in resin and glassed up the openings? As I recall, the main structure of the thing is fiberboard sort of like the factory rear panels in Silverado K5s.

If that's the case, that wouldn't be too hard at all...especially considering that I wouldn't have to fabricate anything from scratch, or make a mold.

Edit: Do you think you could get any pics of your buddy's dash?

No, he removed the dash pad, and then sanded down the old vinyl and padding to be smooth. He basically only sanded where the cracks were, then he applied the fiberglass directly over the foam and vinyl of the original pad. It added about a 1/16" of an inch to the total thickness of the pad.

I will try to get over there this week and get a couple of pics of the dash pad.

No, he removed the dash pad, and then sanded down the old vinyl and padding to be smooth. He basically only sanded where the cracks were, then he applied the fiberglass directly over the foam and vinyl of the original pad. It added about a 1/16" of an inch to the total thickness of the pad.

I will try to get over there this week and get a couple of pics of the dash pad.

Hmm... If I do that, I'll take it down to the fiberboard, glass it, then cover it with new foam and vinyl.

THEN I'd cut my holes. With a trim ring around whatever is mounted there, it'd look factory.

That would work as well. I will try to get over there tomorrow and get a pic. It will depend on him bringing the Burb to work, and me getting the job app done early enough.

That would work as well. I will try to get over there tomorrow and get a pic. It will depend on him bringing the Burb to work, and me getting the job app done early enough.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

I'm really start to nail down the details of my interior in my head.

So far, the short version is:

1) Ryoken® dash panel :D
2) Van-style shift indicator on the steering column (Ryoken's® dash panel has no provisions for a shift indicator)
3) Lots of Autometer gauges
4) Those cool aircraft air vents in the dash, the round ones that swivel
5) custom console with storage, and it'll meet up with the dash and house the "stereo" (with DVD and LCD screen)
6) '07 Silverado leather seats, or something similar...preferably heated and powered
7) high-end audio...nice 3.5's in the dash and 6.5's in the kick panels
8) Real climate control

#8 will be trick... I want to remove the factory heat & A/C unit and replace it with an aftermarket unit that mounts under the dash. It's fully electronic, and therefore uses no cables or vacuum lines to change the temperature or which vents the air comes out of. Since the controls are fully electronic, they can be mounted anywhere. I can upgrade to a digital climate control later or just go with it from the start.

The reason I want to redo the factory dash pad is to mount the aircraft-style A/C vents while providing a "factory" appearance.

My console will house the DVD/stereo as well as the climate controls.

This type of console is my inspiration:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3122/2329911533_cbe303a1d1.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2199/2329911537_527eac7a8f.jpg

The storage compartments next to the cig lighter (in the console in the pics) would be where I'd mount the climate controls and entertainment setup.

Mine will end up looking more industrial...more in keeping with the look of an older C/K as opposed to a late-model truck. But you get the idea. It won't be too awfully pretty. I still plan on getting the floor bed-lined.

My only question with that type of setup is how do you operate the transfer case lever. I know with the positioning of my 205's shift lever, there would be no convienent way to do that type of console. I have my own plan for my console, but it doesn't extend to the dash. I am thinking of trying to move the current heat/A/C controls to the top right vent in the dash bezel, then moving my stereo to their current location. My CB will stay in the ashtray, and my scanner will go into the console. The back of the console is going to have a provision for the 12"??? Sirius backseat TV system. (Gotta have something to keep the kids quiet.)

My only question with that type of setup is how do you operate the transfer case lever. I know with the positioning of my 205's shift lever, there would be no convienent way to do that type of console. I have my own plan for my console, but it doesn't extend to the dash. I am thinking of trying to move the current heat/A/C controls to the top right vent in the dash bezel, then moving my stereo to their current location. My CB will stay in the ashtray, and my scanner will go into the console. The back of the console is going to have a provision for the 12"??? Sirius backseat TV system. (Gotta have something to keep the kids quiet.)

One step ahead of you... Cable shifter. :D

I'm still not 100% sure where I'll locate it. Technically it can be anywhere. I thought about incorporating it into the console, similar to how many auto-tranny cars have a floor shifter...possibly even modding a factory auto-tranny shifter for that exact purpose. Either that, or on my (driver's) side of the console, have the arm come up the side.

Do you remember the e-brakes in really old cars? It was a pull-to-engage, push-to-release deal. With a cable shifter, even that would be possible. I just don't know quite yet. That's one of the final details to be worked out.

RE the Sirius TV... I haven't looked into it in a while. What's the programming like now? Last I checked it was Disney and 2 or 3 other things. I wish DirecTV had an omni-directional mobile dish, preferably in an aerodynamic pod that could be magnetically roof-mounted. I'd be a road-trippin' mofo then. :haha:

Right now that's all there is, Nick, Disney, and Cartoon Network, but for the kids right now that is ideal for me. Plus I already have Sirius radio, so it is just a simple switch.

DirecTV does have an omni-directional, magnetic mount antenna, but it is very spendy. Last time I checked them out, they were over 3k. I can't seem to find one at the moment, but I know I saw the Chrome Mafia guys on Trick my Truck add one to a semi, and it was using a DirecTV reciever. It was a really cool, low profile design too.

Right now that's all there is, Nick, Disney, and Cartoon Network, but for the kids right now that is ideal for me. Plus I already have Sirius radio, so it is just a simple switch.

DirecTV does have an omni-directional, magnetic mount antenna, but it is very spendy. Last time I checked them out, they were over 3k. I can't seem to find one at the moment, but I know I saw the Chrome Mafia guys on Trick my Truck add one to a semi, and it was using a DirecTV reciever. It was a really cool, low profile design too.

That's the idea... to just be able to watch it while going down the road and not have to "point" the dish. I bet it's really low-tech on the inside, probably not much different than the inside of a Sirius or XM antenna.

You'd think there'd already be a cheap alternative considering how many hundreds of thousands of RVs and campers are on the road, literally 365 days a year.

Especially when you consider that the antenna for my Sirius radio is about 2" in diameter and less than 3/8"'s of an inch thick. How hard can it really be?

Especially when you consider that the antenna for my Sirius radio is about 2" in diameter and less than 3/8"'s of an inch thick. How hard can it really be?

Well think of it this way... the LMB on the end of the arm on a dish is really the business end. That's what does all the work. Now...granted, the dish reflects it back toward the LMB, but still...

Yeah, I totally agree. I think it's a price markup of Biblical proportion.

Sirius and DTV are both pulling signal from a satellite, right? :dunno:

Hmm... If I do that, I'll take it down to the fiberboard, glass it, then cover it with new foam and vinyl.

THEN I'd cut my holes. With a trim ring around whatever is mounted there, it'd look factory.

You've probably seen this post (http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197821) already, but is that what you were thinking of? Taking it all the way down to metal hadn't occured to me before, but that sounds like a pretty good idea. Then you could just stretch some fabric over the whole thing and glass it pretty easy and you wouldn't have to worry about filling the little holes. Maybe build some raised wooden supports for the speakers and glass the whole thing. Some skimcoat (http://www.buicks.net/shop/body/bondo.html), sanding and a little paint (bedliner?:D) and that would be beautiful!

You've probably seen this post (http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197821) already, but is that what you were thinking of? Taking it all the way down to metal hadn't occured to me before, but that sounds like a pretty good idea. Then you could just stretch some fabric over the whole thing and glass it pretty easy and you wouldn't have to worry about filling the little holes. Maybe build some raised wooden supports for the speakers and glass the whole thing. Some skimcoat (http://www.buicks.net/shop/body/bondo.html), sanding and a little paint (bedliner?:D) and that would be beautiful!

I had NOT seen that! I didn't realize how much metal was underneath that. That definitely makes things easier.

Bedliner would be a cool touch. I have thought of it, but I don't want to go overboard with the stuff since I plan on using it on the floor, and possibly the bottoms of the doors (on the inside).

I may use an older dash pad though. I got a good close-up look at a 73-80 C-10 today. It was beautifully restored...2-tone blue and white. Anyway, I like the look of that dash, the way that it doesn't hang over the gauges.

Thanks a bunch for that link! :waytogo:

Yeah I do like the older dash pads with no overhang. I've had my dash off while I'm redoing the interior and thinking about taking it down to metal as well. I was looking at the Durabak smooth paint and I think I might just paint it with that. I dunno if I'm up for glassing the whole thing right now but I'm still considering what to do for the dash speakers. I have some 3.5's so I'll probably just get brackets and put them in there for the time being.

1) Ryoken® dash panel :D

8) Real climate control

#8 will be trick... I want to remove the factory heat & A/C unit and replace it with an aftermarket unit that mounts under the dash. It's fully electronic, and therefore uses no cables or vacuum lines to change the temperature or which vents the air comes out of. Since the controls are fully electronic, they can be mounted anywhere. I can upgrade to a digital climate control later or just go with it from the start.



similar to what i want to do, but i really like the climate controls from an 88-94 chevy pickup, with the digital controls. itll be alot of work, but itll be fun and unique.

Yeah I do like the older dash pads with no overhang. I've had my dash off while I'm redoing the interior and thinking about taking it down to metal as well. I was looking at the Durabak smooth paint and I think I might just paint it with that. I dunno if I'm up for glassing the whole thing right now but I'm still considering what to do for the dash speakers. I have some 3.5's so I'll probably just get brackets and put them in there for the time being.

What is the underlying metal on these dashes? Aluminum or steel? I wouldn't mind the bedliner treatment if all the holes were welded up with patches.

similar to what i want to do, but i really like the climate controls from an 88-94 chevy pickup, with the digital controls. itll be alot of work, but itll be fun and unique.

Factory controls are cool... I just like the kit that's available through the aftermarket. I'm not 100% sure I'll do the digital setup, but the fully electric setup is definitely on the list.

What is the underlying metal on these dashes? Aluminum or steel? I wouldn't mind the bedliner treatment if all the holes were welded up with patches.

As others have confirmed here, it is steel. I've picked a little of the old stuff off but I'm not sure if I'm ready to take it all the way down to bare yet. About a month ago I was just gonna put a crappy cd player in it and then I found some mystery wires and then some sticky stuff on the floor under the rubber mat...now it's gutted from the firewall to the tailgate with plans of welding up some floor holes and at the very least some chassis saver...

aint it great how these things snowball from little to big...

I found a repro dash pad that has NO cutouts for A/C, and no trim...

http://www.dashtops.com/dashboard/buydash.cfm/5480

It's the 73-80 style board (which I'm leaning toward, even though mine is an '86).

I'm just trying to determine if it's a slip-on cover to go over an existing dash, or the entire dash pad. I'm hoping the latter... :D

Those are the plastic slip on type covers. They use adhesive to hold them to the original pad.

Those are the plastic slip on type covers. They use adhesive to hold them to the original pad.

Damn... really? :doah: :(

Yep, there was a thread around here about that company, and they are the plastic add ons. Still would work for the intended purpose, but I had to tell you the truth.

Yep, there was a thread around here about that company, and they are the plastic add ons. Still would work for the intended purpose, but I had to tell you the truth.

Well, for my purposes, it wouldn't work, so thanks for letting me know... :o

If these are designed to slip over an old cracked dash pad I wonder how well they could be adapted to fit over one that has been stripped of all the foam and vinyl...

If these are designed to slip over an old cracked dash pad I wonder how well they could be adapted to fit over one that has been stripped of all the foam and vinyl...
I don't think that would work, since these attach to the pad and vinyl. Without that, you wouldn't have any real way of attaching it to the steel frame.

Yeah I took a closer look and that does seem out of the question. I'm still trying to find a good way to use the metal frame to build up something around it.

I talked with one of my body shop friends and he suggested using spray foam or something to build up on top of the metal and then sanding it to the desired shape, then epoxy'ing over that. Kinda like making a surfboard...

Yeah I took a closer look and that does seem out of the question. I'm still trying to find a good way to use the metal frame to build up something around it.

I talked with one of my body shop friends and he suggested using spray foam or something to build up on top of the metal and then sanding it to the desired shape, then epoxy'ing over that. Kinda like making a surfboard...
Now that would be a workable solution.