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Fred_M1010
07-06-2009, 04:40 PM
My build is at a stand-still for the moment, so I thought I might as well start a build-thread and post some pics, while I wait for the inspiration to return :wink1:
All feedback are welcome both good and bad!
(I know spelling and grammar sucks though, so you don't have to point that out :o )

My first build was a 2500 silverado, but that was both expensive and
not very reliable offroad (6" lift and 37" tires).

So this time I started with a -84 CUCV K30, with the plan to make it as cheap as possible.

This is how it looked before I messed it up.
It's an M1010 ambulance, that served in Desertstorm (from what I heard), but later got imported to Sweden, where it served as an ambulance in a swedish mine before I bought it.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/7654269213.jpg

EDIT: Sneak preview after modifications:
http://forumbilder.se/images/9813200924344068f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I started working on it this winter.
First I installed 56" springs up front.
I lenghtened the framerails a bit for the front bolt to fit after I relocated the front spring-hangers.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/20090110.jpg

I really liked the CUCV tow-hooks, so I welded a piece of angle iron to them for two of the spring-hanger holes.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/20090112_001_.jpg

I left the rear shackle mounts in their original position.
I measured along the arch on the springs to see how long they could be at maximum.
Then I used that measurement to determine how long shackles I needed.
It ended up 8.25" c/c (with reinforcement)
I let the reinforcement follow the profile of the frame with a 1/4" space in between,
when the shackle is in it's rearmost position.
That makes it a little stronger without making the shackle unnecessary long
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/20090226.jpg

This is how the shackle-angle looked like at ride-height
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/20090228_003_.jpg
If you think the leafpacks looks funny, it's because they DO look funny.
I got a pair of main-leafs for free, so in the hillbilly-spirit of this build I mixed and matched up the leafpacks with springs from both 54" and 64" springs :D


Next step was transforming it into a regular pickup truck
(The CUCV-crowd will probably kill me for this :wink1:)
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/20090112_002_.jpg

First I removed all the rivets.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0064s.JPG

Then I cut out the sheetmetal from an old K10, and measured completely wrong doing so :doah:
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0066s.JPG

To top it of I welded it way too fast, causing it to warp :doah:
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0079s.JPG
But who cares anyway :D

To be continued...

Hubnut
07-06-2009, 07:17 PM
I don't think you messed it up at all. Nice job so far! I like it.

76zimmer
07-06-2009, 07:51 PM
how did you get ahold of that truck over there?

Fred_M1010
07-07-2009, 03:06 AM
I got it from www.blocket.se (http://www.blocket.se) which is like Swedens equivalent to Craigslist.
The CUCVs are not very common here, but they do exist.
I guess some of them are imported from germany.

Anyway, next step was to get 64" springs in the back.
(Btw the original springpacks had 9 leaves :eek:)
I started by removing the diesel-tank and all spring brackets.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0094s.JPG

Then I moved the front hangers 6" forward, to keep the same whelbase as stock.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0100s.JPG
I also moved the crossmember, since it has some rivets in common with the hanger brackets,
and I believe they placed them together for a reason.
The frame got a little taller at the front of the crossmember though, so I made a little shim to place under it.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0099s.JPG

I deicided to do a shackle-flip also while I where at it.
Fortunatly, when I got my 64" springs I also got the springhangers from a IFS-truck.
And the front hangers made a perfect fit for my rear.
I just beefed them up some, just in case.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0108s.JPG
(I'm not sure if they would work on a K5-K20 though, I don't think the spring has the same distance from the frame on those)


The shackles got some reinforcment as well.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0104s.JPG

I mounted the rear hangers as far to the front as I could, without risking the shackle to lock when the springs get straight
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0110s.JPG
(It doesn't rest on the axle in this pic.)

Coming up: front drive-shaft and shocks

uao85
07-07-2009, 08:20 AM
Nice build, definitely dont blame you for cutting up the cucv. Can be kinda hard to drive around with a huge hole in the rear of the cab :haha:. Hopefully this will give me some motivation to finish my cucv project once I get it out of storage this weekend. Also welcome to CK5, saw you were a new member, hope you enjoy the site, there is definitely a ton of information here.

Remington

str8axle55
07-07-2009, 12:44 PM
Welcome to the site. Looks like you have a nice build going. What`s in the garage, a Chevelle? That truck should turn some heads over there.

Fred_M1010
07-08-2009, 08:36 AM
Thanks for the warm welcome!

Thats a -69 camaro, but it's sitting without engine at the moment.
Thats another project of mine, I'm rebuilding the 454 after an oilpump pickup incident :frown1:
But good thing is, it will go faster after it's done :D
I'm treating it with bigger valves, some porting, and hi-comp pistons.
The cam was ok already.

But enough of that, I promised a drive-shaft write-up, so here goes:

If found some square-tubing in my friends scrap-pile.
The outer tube was about 60mm and 5mm thick, and the inner was 50mm and 4mm thick. (1" = 25.4mm)
I thought they would fit perfectly after I made a shallow cut for the seam.
But I had to grind down the whole inner tube by 0.3mm.
That was a major pain in the ass!
I used paint to see where the high-spots where when i test fitted it.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0282s.JPG
The seam in the outer tube wasn't centered, so the cut is a little offset.
Be sure to measure that before you cut, I almost didn't.

I was really lucky with the fit of the end-parts though.
Up front I used the complete front section.
For it to be a perfect fit, I made cuts on all sides of the tube, and I made them just so wide so I had to use a little force to shove the front section in
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0284s.JPG
I also chamfered(is that the correct word?) the cuts so I could weld there as well.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0289s.JPG

Then I made the it the same way with the rear section.
I left a bit of the original tube on it, so it would line up better.
I also grinded some for better angles
(the grinding is not finished in this pic)
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0286s.JPG

Here is the end result:
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0291s.JPG
I placed grease fittings on all sides, but I don't think that is neccessary.
It's better to remove it once in a while and grease it up properly.
I noticed that if you pump to much grease into it, it will be harder to extend and compress, and I think that could hurt the transfercase.

I haven't noticed any balance issues with it yet, but I haven't drove it very fast either :whistle:

82355
07-08-2009, 01:04 PM
Yeah, I did something to my front driveshaft the last time I had it out (probably bent the slip yoke a little on a rock), it doesn't slide now, and it broke my SM465's bell housing from where the clutch fork goes through, down to the bottom of the bellhousing. So yeah, make sure it slides freely. I like the truck so far though.

Martin

howdiy
07-08-2009, 05:44 PM
Thanks for doing the driveshaft right before I am going to do mine :D

Stomis
07-08-2009, 06:37 PM
Yep good to see some driveshaft and cv clearance shots I'll be building one in a few weeks. Keep your metric garbage of this goddamn site, we're Americans damn it!!!! :haha::haha::haha::haha: j/k man.

See if I got my hands on an ambulance I would chop the top to the same height as the truck and make an excursion rig out of it with a little sleeping area and food/parts storage

Fred_M1010
07-09-2009, 02:49 AM
Keep your metric garbage of this goddamn site, we're Americans damn it!!!! :haha::haha::haha::haha: j/k man.


You're just metrically challenged :haha:;)

tRustyK5
07-09-2009, 03:04 AM
For anyone else building a tube shaft...ask around for "receiver tubing". It has the inside welded seam swaged out already.

Rene

Ronnie4wd
07-09-2009, 10:14 AM
Welcome Fred :waytogo:

howdiy
07-09-2009, 10:15 AM
It's like 25-30 bucks a foot though, Makes the dirveshaft cost a lot more. I read that the inside is made bigger also so it makes the driveshaft sloppier

thedrip
07-09-2009, 10:26 AM
I went the receiver tubing route. it's a square tube drive shaft thats going to weigh a lot, the tiny bit of slop doesn't make a difference. I also like the idea of NOT weakening the driveshaft by cutting halfway through one side of the inner portion.

howdiy
07-09-2009, 10:38 AM
That part kind of worries me a bit, oh well we'll see how it holds up. But it's still at least an 1/8" which is about the same as stock, a bit of a stress riser though

Fred_M1010
07-09-2009, 01:34 PM
Welcome Fred :waytogo:
Tjena Ronnie! du känner nog till mig bättre som Grottulf, men det har du nog redan listat ut ;)
Jag har fått lite inspiration från din K30 måste jag erkänna:D

Sorry guys, I'll stick to english now.

After the spring swaps I could finally try out the new tires :D
The tires are IROK 42/14-16LT, and the wheels are Cragar 10x16 with 4.125" BS.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0294s.JPG
I had to do some cutting, but that was expected.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0044s.JPG
With the help from my tractor I checked maximum drop and flex, so I could measure how long shocks I needed.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0301s.JPG

http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0302s.JPG

Since the rear shocks are mounted at an angle, and sits on the inner side of the springs, they doesn't have to be so long.
So I got a pair of Procomp 926505 with 11" stroke, and I could still relocate the lower mounts, for increased clearance.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0547s.JPG

http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0558s.JPG

For the front I needed longer shocks though, and I soon realised I had to move the upper mount to allow this.
I figured since I have to move the mount anyway, I could just as well get a really long shock,
so I got a pair of Procomp 936000 with 15,5" stroke for the front.
But that was quite dumb, I ran into clearance issues with the steering-shaft.
So I spent a lot of time, adjusting the mounts.
I ended up placing the shocks straight up, where the brake line bracket were.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0538s.JPG
The mounts I made from some angle iron laying around.
I used two existing holes in the frame to mount it.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0541s.JPG
Here you can see how close to the steering shaft it is.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0556s.JPG

That how the truck looks right know.
I took it for test drive with stock steering a couple of weeks ago, but I busted a draglink end, cause of the angles.
So the next thing I have to do i cross-over steering.
I hope I will have the time to complete it soon.

I'll give you a teaser for the time being: ;)
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0345s.JPG
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0388s.JPG

AJMBLAZER
07-10-2009, 06:12 PM
Nice work.:waytogo:

Funny how many of us live where this stuff is much easier to do and purchase yet we don't do it out of whatever lazy reason...and (another) guy in Sweden is showing us all up!:laugh:
(I'm looking squarely in the mirror here.)

No criticisms for cutting up a CUCV here. Done some of it myself.:D How's the wiring on that thing? Still the FUBAR original, US Army "fixed", or did someone get rid of all the goofy "ambulance only" stuff and put it to either regular CUCV or civy spec?

dremu
07-10-2009, 06:24 PM
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0301s.JPG

A Chebby truck being lifted by a John Deere. A typical Sunday afternoon in the vast majority of the Midwest ... but probably not so common in Scandinavia :haha:

-- A

howdiy
07-10-2009, 07:19 PM
On your shaft did you turn down the stock female splined part?

I'm going to have to turn mine down about 7mm

http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0289s.JPG

Fred_M1010
07-11-2009, 02:39 AM
On your shaft did you turn down the stock female splined part?

I'm going to have to turn mine down about 7mm

http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0289s.JPG

No I left it untouched.
I believe my inner tube was about 42mm inside (1.65"), so all I had to do was cut the slots on the sides of the tube, to make it fit.

But I had to trim the larger diameter a little, to allow the outer tube to slip over it.

EDIT: this wasn't a very good idea, it got weakened and broke later.
I then welded the square tube directly to the fork part of the yoke instead, that was much better.
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0290s.JPG


A Chebby truck being lifted by a John Deere. A typical Sunday afternoon in the vast majority of the Midwest ... but probably not so common in Scandinavia :haha:

-- A

No, here we usually do it on Saturdays :D


Nice work.:waytogo:

Funny how many of us live where this stuff is much easier to do and purchase yet we don't do it out of whatever lazy reason...and (another) guy in Sweden is showing us all up!:laugh:
(I'm looking squarely in the mirror here.)

No criticisms for cutting up a CUCV here. Done some of it myself.:D How's the wiring on that thing? Still the FUBAR original, US Army "fixed", or did someone get rid of all the goofy "ambulance only" stuff and put it to either regular CUCV or civy spec?

Thanks!
I still have the funny 12V/24V ambulance-only alternators, but it's only the starter thats still 24V.
The glowplugs are already civilianised :)
I have plans to move the batteries to the back.
When I do that, I'll probably convert it to 12V only.

AJMBLAZER
07-11-2009, 05:52 AM
Your welcome.

The M1010's are notorious for their goofy electrical system and it's gremlins. Seems like there isn't a good fix other than "rip it off and replace it with regular CUCV or civy stuff".

My M1008 is still the 24v setup but as soon as something 24v (and expensive) dies I'll probably convert to 12v.

Ronnie4wd
07-11-2009, 06:56 AM
When you Fred convert to 12v be sure to contact me so I can buy your 24v starter :bow:.
I think they are a lot better than the 12v ones and I will never go to 12v starter in my truck.
If I get ahold of another starter I will do 24v starter on my K-20 too :crazy:

rob h
07-11-2009, 07:54 AM
i bought a 12v starter for 110.00(2 year warranty) and it starts everyday perfectly with 2 800 cca batteries.... i converted my m1008 to 12v and it works great...

Stomis
07-11-2009, 09:52 AM
Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...

Fred_M1010
07-11-2009, 02:03 PM
Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...

Ok, I'll speak "inch" this time :D
The outer tube was 2 3/8" (outer width) with 0.2" wall thickness
the inner tube was 2" (outer width) with 0.15" wall thickness.
(I'm not 100% sure that tubings are made in the same dimensions here as i America though.)

This might be a little smaller dimensions than what most people use,
but I'm quite certain it will hold up.

But as I said, I had to grind down the width along the entire length of the inner tube, by something like 0.04".
So there might be better materials out there :whistle:


Ronnie, I'll keep you in mind regarding the starter

howdiy
07-11-2009, 02:11 PM
Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...

From my research I think most people use 2" and 2.5" .25 wall

That what I got

I ended up grinding down the female splined part square to slid in my 2" shaft. Tomorrow I will press it in and then weld it and take some pics.

/hi-jack off

Fred_M1010
07-11-2009, 02:31 PM
Now that you're saying it, that was what I read to.
But I took what I stumbled on, to keep the hillbilly spirit of this build :D

tRustyK5
07-11-2009, 04:38 PM
I'm pretty Europe has mostly metric steel sizes, and we have imperial sizes. We've run into that building stuff designed and bound for Europe...all the material is spec'd out in metric sizing (which is near impossible to get here)

Either way, there should be plenty of options no matter which you use.

Rene

broncoman6524
07-11-2009, 05:40 PM
http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0294s.JPG



Front tires are on backwards. :D

Nice build though, very thourough SP? work. Nice attention to detail.

Fred_M1010
07-12-2009, 01:53 AM
Damn, I didn't think anyone would notice :o
I got a little too excited when I got the new tires, so I didn't have time to think :D

frikenwoodro
07-15-2009, 08:45 AM
You moved the front hanger 6" forward correst? That was all you needed for the 64's? NOT THREAD JACKING

Just gathering info :)

uao85
07-15-2009, 10:27 AM
Talk about getting motivated. I have had my m1008 for 4 years now mostly gathering parts... I feel it coming back, but will have to start a new thread pretty soon seeing as the old one has fallen into the abyss...


Keep it going, love the build. Although mine will be more of a street queen/tow rig than most, I cant wait to start tearing into it. Just got it out of storage this past Saturday morning.

Remington

howdiy
07-15-2009, 10:38 AM
How much up travel did you put on your d-shaft at ride height?

I only have about 4" of up travel from ride height.

Fred_M1010
07-15-2009, 01:14 PM
You moved the front hanger 6" forward correst? That was all you needed for the 64's? NOT THREAD JACKING

Just gathering info :)

Yes, I moved the front ones 6" forward, but don't forget that you'll probably have to move the rear ones as well.
How much depends on if you have 52" or 56" now, and if you're doing a shackle-flip also.

As you can see from the pictures I also moved the crossmember forward, but I don't think thats necessary.

Talk about getting motivated. I have had my m1008 for 4 years now mostly gathering parts... I feel it coming back, but will have to start a new thread pretty soon seeing as the old one has fallen into the abyss...


Keep it going, love the build. Although mine will be more of a street queen/tow rig than most, I cant wait to start tearing into it. Just got it out of storage this past Saturday morning.

Remington

Get on it!:waytogo:
Start a new build-thread an post some pics, and you'll see the inspiration will return.
You just inspired me to work harder :)

How much up travel did you put on your d-shaft at ride height?

I only have about 4" of up travel from ride height.

I haven't limited the uptravel yet, but I believe I will set it to as little as 3-4"
For the flex you really don't need much uptravel at all, maybe 2" or something like that.
For rough landings it would be nice with more though :thinking:

tourdog
07-16-2009, 05:38 AM
fred when you do your 12 volt convertion the lessenaville altenaters fit right in I to have a 1010 did a 12 volt convertion all i did was throw 24 volt starter out put 12 volt in thow out rester on fire wall and put two 12 volt lessnaville alts on fit right in all done in about 1 hour ohya took blue box out the big one left the smaller one have not had a single electric promble since pully were same even the belts . i did the same thing took the box off fix back off cab but i put flat bed on the truck use it daily

Fred_M1010
07-16-2009, 02:07 PM
Ok, thanks for the info.
But what is a lessnaville alternator, I've never heard of that?
I thought almost any chevy alternator would fit.
And what blue box are you talking about?

tourdog
07-16-2009, 02:18 PM
a lessenaville is a type of altenater go to heavy truck store they will know might not be spelled right . the blue box is on the left fender it is what changed 12 volt to 24 volt for the top alt. only the bottom is sraight up 24 volt to feed the box on back .

82355
07-16-2009, 02:28 PM
It's two words, Leece Neville.

Martin

Fred_M1010
08-10-2009, 09:12 AM
Now I'm finally done with the crossover conversion :D

I got the pitman-arm from WFO.
It's a stock Jeep TJ/YJ-arm, machined for chevy DLE, and without keys in the splines.
It's 5.25" long and has a 2" drop.
I thought the superlift 1104 arm (which most people seem to use) would have to much drop,
and interfere with my stock height 56" springs.

The 2wd steeringbox I found, turned out to be a pre-80 version, so the hydraulic fittings didn't match.
But since my current box worked fine, I just swapped sector-shafts instead.
I thought that would be a PITA, but I was surprised at how easy it was.
Just remove the pitman-arm and the four screws on top of the box, and pull it all up.
(The shaft needs to be centered though.)
http://forumbilder.se/images/66200993511PM5650.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Here is how the steering arm looked when finished.
I had some help from friends to pull this off, thanks guys :thumb:
http://forumbilder.se/images/14200994412PM698d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/a4200994619PM135b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
It's 6" long c/c.
It could have been made a little shorter to ensure lock-to-lock steering even under maximum flex,
but it sems to work fine.

The draglink I made from a 35mm (1 3/8") seamless tube with a 1/8" thickness.
(edit: which I later realized was way to weak :o )
http://forumbilder.se/images/bd200984442PM5252.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
I measured and found that two 30 degree bends with 6" between, would be enough to avoid hitting the crossmember.
I cut the adjusting sleeve for the stock drag-link in half, and shoved them in a litle in each end of the tube,
and welded around them.
http://forumbilder.se/images/ca200990253PMcc45.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
This way I can use stock draglink ends, and not worry about finding new ones when they wear out.
But there is one downside to it.
Since they are so long I cant have the first bend as close to the pitman-arm as I would like.
It's not a big deal though, I only have som slight rubbing with the crossmember when steering fully to the right,
at the same time as the right wheel is fully comressed.
And that can be fixed with sime minor trimming :grind:

Some more pictures:
http://forumbilder.se/images/fd200991051PMb9b0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/eb200991225PM4c7f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/3e200991455PMf2e1.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

On the first test-drive I discovered that it's really wobbly on the road.
When examining it, I saw that it moves the axle side-ways before it begins to steer.
The biggest cause seems to be my really long shackles (8.25")
and that the bushings between them and the frame are probably shot.
I have been thinking about upgrading those bolts to 9/16" anyway,
so I'll probably make or buy some polyurethane bushings for it.

The spring bushings are all new stock rubber bushings, but they seemed to deflect pretty much as well,
What do you think guys, should I go poly there as well...?

Stomis
08-10-2009, 09:19 AM
The point of that bend is to twist the draglink so it falls in the center of the crossmember. I had always thought it was to help with angles but after 10min on the phone with WFO I learned otherwise.

Rotate it so the bend is on an angle that places the draglink in the center of the crossmember channel at its closest point and I bet it dont hit anything.

Fred_M1010
08-10-2009, 09:27 AM
Ok, I'll try that.

Ronnie4wd
08-10-2009, 01:17 PM
I think 8,25" shackles are a little too long with crossover and long soft springs.
But I am not an expert :crazy:

MTBLAZER89
08-10-2009, 02:24 PM
I agree on the shackles. I have 7.25" shackles and they contribute to some of the lateral movement I have. I am in the middle of replacing the frame bushings and 9/16 bolts from DIY. We'll see if that helps some.

One note. Is your steering arm bolted down on top of your kingpin cap? That should be bolted directly to the knuckles machined surface for a proper clamp. It may work fine, but could loosen up easier without that friction between the two machined surfaces. Maybe cut down and weld that kingpin cap on top of the arm.

Just my .02

Great Build :wink1:

hmatiak
08-10-2009, 06:30 PM
The spring bushings are all new stock rubber bushings, but they seemed to deflect pretty much as well,
What do you think guys, should I go poly there as well...?

I just did the poly bushings on the front shackle hangers..... Huge improvement with the lateral movement. I have nearly the same setup with 52's for front springs, 42" tires and crossover. This is what i went with: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-2111G/

Fred_M1010
08-11-2009, 04:36 AM
I think 8,25" shackles are a little too long with crossover and long soft springs.
But I am not an expert :crazy:

Problem is, thats the shortest length I could fit, without risking it touching the frame (see page1).


One note. Is your steering arm bolted down on top of your kingpin cap? That should be bolted directly to the knuckles machined surface for a proper clamp. It may work fine, but could loosen up easier without that friction between the two machined surfaces. Maybe cut down and weld that kingpin cap on top of the arm.


Yeah, that was my original plan, but I got sloppy :o
I'll probably do that later...
Hopefully before it breaks :rolleyes:

I just did the poly bushings on the front shackle hangers..... Huge improvement with the lateral movement. I have nearly the same setup with 52's for front springs, 42" tires and crossover. This is what i went with: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-2111G/

Are you sure that is what you used, they seems to be for stock front springs, and not include the shackle bushings.
Besides I think I need custom ones for the shackle anyway, since I'll probably upgrade to 9/16" bolt.
And one of my 56" main leafs had a smaller bushing in one end :confused:

hmatiak
08-11-2009, 10:16 AM
Are you sure that is what you used, they seems to be for stock front springs, and not include the shackle bushings.
Besides I think I need custom ones for the shackle anyway, since I'll probably upgrade to 9/16" bolt.
And one of my 56" main leafs had a smaller bushing in one end :confused:

It is indeed. I has a few applications and its for the front upper shacke hanger. Comes with 4 bushings and 2 sleeves.

Fred_M1010
08-23-2009, 03:09 PM
I took your advice and got the shackle bushings from Summit.
I changed the sleeve though to one with a slightly bigger inner diameter, so I could fit a class12.9 M12 bolt.
It's a little stronger than a 1/2" grade 8 bolt, and much stronger than the stock 7/16" bolt

While not perfect, it handles way better now :D
But if I would do it all again, I would get poly bushings for the spring eyes as well though.

Fred_M1010
09-23-2009, 02:44 PM
This week I've had some time to wrench on the K30 again.

I took the bed from an K10 parts-truck I've got.
It's badly rusted, but it will have to do for the time being.
http://forumbilder.se/images/20120091101003e14.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Since I don't plan on keeping that bed for long, I mounted the diesel-tank temporary with cargo-straps through the floor
http://forumbilder.se/images/273200995653Aff4c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Next thing on my list of things to do, was a hidden winch-mount
So this evening I've been sitting in front of the truck, and test fitting the winch between the frame-rails
http://forumbilder.se/images/4932009100746b7cc.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

To be continued....

frikenwoodro
09-23-2009, 03:42 PM
Is the front shackle angle bad? I did the same swap and mine looks like that and I was wondering if it is?

Fred_M1010
09-24-2009, 12:48 AM
I don't think the angle in it self is a problem.
People seems to get hung up on that, but as long as you can fully compress and decompress the leafs without the shackle locking/flipping or touching the frame,
I say it's OK.

The length however is another deal.
The side-stability of the axle decreases with longer shackles, and that is very noticeble with crossover steering.
(It tends to move the axle before turning the wheels)
But I believe that problem could be adressed with poly-bushings in the spring-eyes as well as the shackle mounts.
And in worst case a panhard-bar

frikenwoodro
09-24-2009, 02:09 AM
How many leafs are in your front packs? I did the exact swap but my 7" shackles are closer to the frame then yourss are.

Fred_M1010
09-24-2009, 02:36 AM
I've got five leafs (no overload) in the front.
Because of the reinforcement in my shackles, I couldn't make them any shorter than 8.25", without it touching the frame when compressed
But I think tying (sp?) the shackle parts together is more important than shackle-length when it comes to side-stability of the axle.

Another thing that probably will help is hydro-assist, if it's properly set up.

Btw. How does yours handle on the road?

frikenwoodro
09-24-2009, 09:45 AM
So I need longer shackles. Ill try that haha. Mine is a yard gnome as I am laid off. But once I get to working again its game on.

Fred_M1010
10-02-2009, 09:12 AM
Now I've spent some nights in the garage/barn trying to figure out how the heck to make a good winch-mount.

The winch by the way is a Chinese 12000lbs, called Runhua (or Runva depending in what country you're in) EWP12000,
but with the motor from a 10000lbs winch (it wouldn't fit easely otherwise)
It has a two-speed gear-box.

First I did a litle clearance-cutting of the frame, just to get the winch in there
http://forumbilder.se/images/650200992804Pb39d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I've been pondering several ideas, first I thought about cutting the frame-horns and welding on a new crossmember in the front.
But I wanted to keep the stock CUCV bumper-brackets, and I also wanted to be able to remove the mount if needed.

One thought I had, was to weld it to the bumper-brackets only.
But I didn't think that would be strong enough, since there would be nothing holding it in the lower parts :thinking:

That was until I saw the Winch-cradle from Twizted engineering:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254093

Then I realized I could use the antisway-bar mounts :thumb:

What material to use?
What do you think, angle-iron of course:D

First I placed one up on top, to see where the winch would end up.
http://forumbilder.se/images/c40200994715P58f0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/3a0200994957P22bc.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

It soon looked like a big jigsaw-puzzle:screwy:
http://forumbilder.se/images/a00200995106P34de.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/df0200995247P7f4f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I then made some angles to tie it together in the front corners
http://forumbilder.se/images/410200995359P1e86.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

These braces will be bolted to the winch-mount up front, so I can remove them when I need to remove the winch
http://forumbilder.se/images/d21200984050P92d0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Now all it needs is some more trimming, and a slab of paint :)
http://forumbilder.se/images/281200984128P5712.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
I will also relocate the control-box up in the engine compartment.

StevoandaRedK5
10-02-2009, 09:21 AM
that looks awesome! 'mazing what one can do with some angle and a welder....haha:waytogo:

dfl701
10-02-2009, 01:12 PM
that does look great! im in the planning stages of the same thing, and i think im sold:D...do you have any other pics?

'86erfixer
10-02-2009, 01:16 PM
that thing's a monster! i dig it.


is it wrong that i also liked the ambulance? way too redneck to drive around an old ambulance tho, or is it. . . :D

K5dreamer
10-02-2009, 03:09 PM
gotta say, the ambulance looks like some truck from an 80's horror movie.

me, im a fan of the body though, its kinda like the redneck chalet. i wouldnt mind having one as a hunting/camping rig. but hard to argue with the awesome work that has transpired on the truck thus far :bow:

Although as cool as your truck is, im looking around your shop, with all the lathes and scrap parts, and equipment...... i fell like jack nicholson as the joker, and youre batman..... "where do you get such wonderful toys????"

Fred_M1010
10-03-2009, 02:32 AM
Thanks for all the kind words!

I did have a little regret about gutting it up (and still do :blush:).
I've spent more than one night drinking beer with my friends back in the ambulance-compartment.
Yeah, we're rednecks, no use in denying it :blush: ;)

If I'll ever find another one I'll buy it and keep it stock

About the tools and stuff, thats a perk with being a farmer, as it's all tax deductible :D
And I never throw anything away, hence all the scrap-metal :D

(Edit: The lathe and mill are not mine though, they are from a shop where a friend of mine work.)


Hopefully I will finish it up tonight, then I can snap some more pics

Fred_M1010
10-04-2009, 01:35 PM
Now the winch-mount is done :D
http://forumbilder.se/images/134200983048P6688.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The lower braces got a little warped when I welded them.
So I cut them up again and tightened down all the bolts before welding it together again.
It's really important the surfaces where the bolts go are flat against each other, .
http://forumbilder.se/images/154200983105P0d50.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I also cut 1" along the whole length of them, both to save some weight and some groundclearance.
They are by far strong enough anyway.
http://forumbilder.se/images/c94200983057P38b7.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Temporary mounting of the control-box
http://forumbilder.se/images/694200983114P00da.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
This will probably be a permanent solution :D

Some more random pics:
http://forumbilder.se/images/f24200983028P0b07.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/5f4200983038P37e8.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/2d4200983004P1332.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The angle-iron I've used is about 2 3/8 x 2 3/8 and 9/32" thick.

If I would do it again I would move it about an inch further back and a half inch up.
Then It would be completely hidden behind the bumper, now I'll have to cut some in the lower section of the bumper.

Next step is rewiring the rear lights.
Not something I look forward to :(

dfl701
10-04-2009, 02:08 PM
so is it completely removable? looks good! now you just gotta throw the bumper on there

Fred_M1010
10-04-2009, 03:32 PM
so is it completely removable? looks good! now you just gotta throw the bumper on there


It is probably a little tight to remove as it "hugs" the frame from both sides.
And part of my front spring hanger is bolted to the bumperbracket,
so I would need to remove the springs to remove the winch-mount.

But it is definitely possible:D

VegasBruce
10-04-2009, 05:29 PM
that looks great :waytogo:

dremu
10-04-2009, 06:17 PM
The angle-iron I've used is about 2 3/8 x 2 3/8 and 9/32" thick.


So is that actually 7mm thick 60x60mm, is it inch stuff, or is it just kinda whatever you had?

-- A

howdiy
10-04-2009, 06:57 PM
Looks good

Fred_M1010
10-05-2009, 02:40 AM
So is that actually 7mm thick 60x60mm, is it inch stuff, or is it just kinda whatever you had?

-- A

Yup, it's metric.
Just translated it for you guys:rolleyes:

I had both thinner and thicker material, but this seemed strong enough.

Since it's thicker than the bumperbrackets (7mm vs 4mm) it's important to grind it down at the ends, to get an even "burn" in both materials, when welded.

Fred_M1010
10-05-2009, 02:37 PM
I test fitted the bumper tonight.
I looks pretty good from a distance :cool:
http://forumbilder.se/images/425200995811P9a96.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

But as I had predicted, it needed some trimming and tweaking :grind:.
I think I'll try to reinforce it some, when I weld up the cuts again

http://forumbilder.se/images/3b5200995802P72fa.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
(The wooden stick is all that holding it up for the moment)
http://forumbilder.se/images/7d5200995750P10c5.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Got a pair of pretty beefy shackles from the hardwarestore this morning too :pimp:

StevoandaRedK5
10-05-2009, 02:40 PM
loooks sweet, nice job.

Fred_M1010
10-18-2009, 03:45 PM
Some more pics:
http://forumbilder.se/images/fc112009809376e41.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/1811200981037d4f4.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I've had time to try it out pretty hard last week, when I went out hunting moose.
And I must say I'm really satisfied with the offroad manners

Here's the mandatory poser flex pic :D:rolleyes:
http://forumbilder.se/images/af112009810047c94.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I soon realized the draglink was way to weak though :doah:
http://forumbilder.se/images/581120098095646a3.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I straightened it out and reinforced it some as a temporary fix
http://forumbilder.se/images/35112009810211406.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Some of my friends got a little creative after a few beers the other day ;)
http://forumbilder.se/images/ef182009103517e435.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

82355
10-18-2009, 05:26 PM
haha

Martin

MTBLAZER89
10-18-2009, 06:31 PM
Sweet pics!

What is the draglink made of? Never seen one bend like that :eek1:

Fred_M1010
10-19-2009, 12:42 AM
I'll quote myself on that one;)

The draglink I made from a 35mm (1 3/8") seamless tube with a 1/8" thickness.

I dunno exactly what material it is though, all I know is it's too weak :o

Fred_M1010
11-02-2009, 06:20 AM
I started working on a hydro-assist this weekend.

I choose to tap the caps on the steering box
My tire rubs the box some, so the hoses would probably be in the way if I tapped the side of the box.

Removing the lower cap was a little tricky before I found an easy way.
There is a hole at the top where you can fit a small screwdriver and pry out one end of the locking-ring.
And after the locking-ring is gone, just turn the input shaft CCW (left), and let the powerpiston shove it out.
If you happen to loose the small steel bearings inside, here is a good guide to get it together again:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869
It happened to me, but wasn't as hard as I had thought.

I can't weld aluminium, so I couldn't weld any reinforcement to the lower cap.
Instead I used one of these:
(EDIT: which wasn't a good idea, the cap didn't hold up anyway, see later posts)
http://forumbilder.se/images/ff1200991840P4b94.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
But now I needed to turn(sp?) the surface around the hole, so the washers sealed up properly.

What I didn't think about was that the cap also serves as a stop for the power-piston.
So I had to turn the nut down by 1mm and use a thinner washer on the inside, so it don't hit the nut first
(I turned the nut by 0.5mm on each side, so I didn't loose any threads)
http://forumbilder.se/images/3a1200992134P3523.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I also grinded down the power-pistons end-cap slightly for some extra clearance.
http://forumbilder.se/images/2f1200992038P3f18.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

For the top cap I used the same type of fitting, but without the nut, just to get the extra thread-length.
http://forumbilder.se/images/961200992052P9af5.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The hydraulic ram I bought from a local hardware-store.
It has a 1.5" diameter 1" rod and a 8" throw
I rewelded one of the mounting-ears to get the hose fittings straight up
Make sure it's completely extended when doing this, otherwise it will melt the seals.

I cut out the mounts from 10mm (~3/8") steel.
Yeah, I know, it's a little overkill.
http://forumbilder.se/images/b21200992000Pdbda.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I then made some steel bushings to fit M16 bolts instead of M20
http://forumbilder.se/images/261200992008Pdeb0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Last thing yesterday I did some mock-up, to see that everything cleared.
http://forumbilder.se/images/731200992106Pd85c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/971200992127P3928.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

It seems to work fine, so I spotwelded it for the time being.

Fred_M1010
11-10-2009, 03:08 AM
I finished up the hydro-assist this weekend.

To get the grease fittings more protected, and easier to access,
I welded up the old holes and tapped new ones on the ends.
http://forumbilder.se/images/111200992021Pf9c0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
I should have rotated this ear when I repositioned it, that way I would only need to re-tap the other side.

For the hoses I used banjo fittings at the ram ends.
And these fittings at the steeringbox ends:
http://forumbilder.se/images/517200915231Pa9a8.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
That way I could easily rotate the hoses anyway I wanted, before I tightened it up.

Do not use pressed 90degree fittings on both ends of the hose.
The hose is so stiff, you can't line them up if they don't end up at the exact right angle.

Some more pic-whoring:D :
http://forumbilder.se/images/037200915240P457b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/037200915249Pc72b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/247200915300P8f72.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/b87200915308P8863.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

It ended up really well.
I don't notice any ill-effects, it's fast enough to turn the wheels even at idle, and it seems to be strong enough for most occasions
I also noticed some improvement in handling, the axle don't seem to move so much side-ways, since the ram turns the wheels compared to the axle, and not the frame.

Next step is probably to increase the oil-volume.
Stay tuned...;)

86k5heavy
11-10-2009, 10:08 AM
Nice job, everything looks great!!

Fred_M1010
11-10-2009, 11:57 AM
Thanks!
Now I just hope to get the time to do some serious wheeling, to try it all out.
I've hardly used the winch yet :o

Worst thing is, it's starting to get dark at 4pm already, this time of the year.

But all the more time for wrenching I guess;)

hmatiak
11-10-2009, 07:56 PM
Before you beat on it too hard you might want to consider a beefier tie rod. The stockers bend fairly easy.

Fred_M1010
11-11-2009, 03:42 PM
Before you beat on it too hard you might want to consider a beefier tie rod. The stockers bend fairly easy.
I understand if the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton tie-rods are a little weak.
But I thought the 1-ton tie-rod would hold up pretty good...
It looks like it's made of solid forged steel, but I could be mistaken.:dunno:

hmatiak
11-11-2009, 07:21 PM
I understand if the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton tie-rods are a little weak.
But I thought the 1-ton tie-rod would hold up pretty good...
It looks like it's made of solid forged steel, but I could be mistaken.:dunno:

Just for experimental sake, try jacking the front of the truck up on the tie rod and watch how much it gives. You wont get the front tires off the ground. Not that this is a true test, but you will see how soft the steel is that is made of. Once it bends, good luck getting it back straight again.

If i remember correctly only the tre's are solid.

Stocker is just not gonna handle the 42's.

dirtygoat
11-11-2009, 10:22 PM
Nice build...

I would love to have one that's original... It would make a great tow/camping rig...

Fred_M1010
11-12-2009, 06:15 AM
Just for experimental sake, try jacking the front of the truck up on the tie rod and watch how much it gives. You wont get the front tires off the ground. Not that this is a true test, but you will see how soft the steel is that is made of. Once it bends, good luck getting it back straight again.

If i remember correctly only the tre's are solid.

Stocker is just not gonna handle the 42's.

The driver side TRE goes the whole way to the other side, so it makes the whole rod solid.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=1005187&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Spicer/4101019B-4.jpg
But you're probably right that it could use some more beef, anyway.

I will need a beefier drag-link anyway, so I might look into that at the same time.
Thanks for the advice!

pennsylvaniaboy
11-12-2009, 07:03 AM
yeh plus te stock components are expense...just go with inserts and tube and be ahead from the start

AJMBLAZER
11-12-2009, 07:33 AM
Does anyone make a tube and separate TRE's setup? My tie rod ends are the only original part left in the steering setup and I'd hate to go and replace it with stock parts again.

pennsylvaniaboy
11-12-2009, 09:30 AM
sky, ORD, etc make kits http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/products.php?category=all&sub_category=steering&page=1

personally i didnt like the beef of these kits. so i ordered 4 1 ton TRE from parts store. 2LH thread and 2 RH thread.

then ordered tube inserts and jam nuts from sky (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=114) and made my own with heavy wall tube....couldnt be happier, its beefy, east to adjust and the cheap to replace parts.

AJMBLAZER
11-12-2009, 09:48 PM
I meant for stock trucks. That only seems to show crossover stuff.

Fred_M1010
11-14-2009, 04:27 AM
Yesterday I increased the volume for the steering fluid.
I'm not really sure that it was necessary, I didn't seem to have a problem with it.
But I came up with a simple solution, so I thought, what the heck, I might as well do it...

My K10 donor-truck had an external oil-tank for the steering fluid,
so I just took that and fabbed up an adapter from old water-pipes so the hose would fit.
I even had the mounting-bracket for the tank already on my engine...?
I used a pieace of an old radiator hose between the adapter and the oil-pump
http://forumbilder.se/images/711420091147339927.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/31142009114744c732.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Does anyone now what years they used the external tank.
I'm thinking I might have had one originally, since I had the bracket for it.

Next step will probably be to remove the inner fenders completely, and relocate the batteries to the bed.
I do have some rubbing issues...
http://forumbilder.se/images/531420091147234ac1.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

pennsylvaniaboy
11-14-2009, 07:06 AM
I meant for stock trucks. That only seems to show crossover stuff.


the stock compnents were so expensive last time i checked....i did crossover for a tad more than it cost to buy new stock components. You can use the inserts, TRE and tube to make a tie rod w/o going to crossover

AJMBLAZER
11-14-2009, 08:14 AM
Not much on the fab abilities here and neither of my trucks is likely to get lifted high enough to get crossover. Hoping someone already makes a tie rod for this.

Fred_M1010
11-17-2009, 06:19 AM
Here are some wheeling pics from this weekend
I think I need a cage or something, I almost flipped over twice.
I had both passenger-side wheels in the air at one point :eek1:

http://forumbilder.se/images/6e13200924145c38a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/9813200924344068f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/4e132009237505f51.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/fa132009238003581.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/2013200923811b206.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/1c132009241458085.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/89132009241499771.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/2f13200924311ee9b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I managed to bend the drag-link again :o
http://forumbilder.se/images/69162009103621ebc4.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Reinforced it some more...
http://forumbilder.se/images/02162009103642bd6a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Now It's getting a little too much redneck-fab even for my taste :o
I really have to fix this properly soon :doah:

I got to try out the winch also :D
http://forumbilder.se/images/be162009103630640f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
The muck in combination with a steep climb got a little to much for the Iroks.

BGKYK5
11-17-2009, 08:59 AM
Very cool pics! As I was scrolling down through the pictures, I was wondering if the draglink was holding up. I guess not. :D

I think it is time to start over on the draglink.

6.2Blazer
11-17-2009, 01:51 PM
I even had the mounting-bracket for the tank already on my engine...?
I used a pieace of an old radiator hose between the adapter and the oil-pump
[/URL]

http://forumbilder.se/images/31142009114744c732.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Does anyone now what years they used the external tank.
I'm thinking I might have had one originally, since I had the bracket for it.

[URL="http://forumbilder.se"]

I though all hydroboost trucks had the extra p/s fluid reservoir? My '90 K5 with the factory 6.2 has that reservoir, and the pump simply has a hose nipple on the top that the rubber hose attaches to with a hose clamp (i.e. no crazy adaptor needed).

Fred_M1010
11-17-2009, 03:30 PM
Very cool pics! As I was scrolling down through the pictures, I was wondering if the draglink was holding up. I guess not. :D

I think it is time to start over on the draglink.

Yup, it sure is :o
But knowing myself, I'll probably not do it until it bends again:rolleyes:

I though all hydroboost trucks had the extra p/s fluid reservoir? My '90 K5 with the factory 6.2 has that reservoir, and the pump simply has a hose nipple on the top that the rubber hose attaches to with a hose clamp (i.e. no crazy adaptor needed).

That might very well be true, it could have been swapped out on my K30.
Especially since I had the bracket for the reservoir.
The K10 I took it from was a 6.2 as well, by the way.
I thought it was easier to fab that "crazy" adapter than to change the pump.
And this way it holds more oil, since that pump housing is much smaller.

If I really need that much oil on the other hand, that is a completely different question :rolleyes:

Fred_M1010
12-09-2009, 12:59 PM
Made a video from my little obstacle-course the other day :D
GXoBPpRbUr0
yup, it needs some more fendertrimming:rolleyes:

AJMBLAZER
12-09-2009, 06:20 PM
Cool.


Errrrrrrk errrrrrrrk errrrrrrrrrk...

bftank
12-09-2009, 11:48 PM
very very cool

Fred_M1010
12-10-2009, 12:34 AM
Errrrrrrk errrrrrrrk errrrrrrrrrk...
I think my brake-discs needs some lubrication:whistle::screwy: :rolleyes: :rotfl:

bftank
12-10-2009, 12:37 AM
in that vid did you still have the wheelwells in? was that what was rubbing or was it the actual fenders?

Fred_M1010
12-10-2009, 01:06 AM
Yes, the wheelwells are still there, and it rubs against them but just slightly.
The upper part of the fenders are worse though, look (and listen) at 1min 14sec in the video :o

Fred_M1010
12-29-2009, 06:44 AM
Finally some snow:D

http://forumbilder.se/images/49292009229433282.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Even with 14" of snow, I managed to get through my little "obstacle-course" :cool1:

original balzer
12-29-2009, 03:27 PM
Very nice build and I think its very cool to have you and Ronnie on here with us. Are you anywhere close to Ronnie?

Are you still open diff in the front and gov-loc in the rear?
pretty impressive how flex can keep the tires on the ground and give you traction.

AJMBLAZER
12-29-2009, 03:57 PM
CUCV so Detroit in the rear.

original balzer
12-29-2009, 03:58 PM
oh thats right I forget that alot.

AJMBLAZER
12-29-2009, 03:59 PM
Only the M1009 Blazer CUCV's had the Gov-Lock.

Fred_M1010
12-30-2009, 07:50 AM
Yup, the front diff is still open

I think Ronnie lives in the Stockholm region
I live about 200miles west of there, close to Norway.

original balzer
12-30-2009, 12:39 PM
Thats cool my ansestors are from Norway and Sweden both. Someday when Im rich and famous I would like to travel there.

Ronnie4wd
12-30-2009, 01:37 PM
If you do get rich please tell us so we can meet you at the airport :wink1:
I live next to Arlanda, Swedens biggest airport.
And if you get famous we know when you come here anyways :p:

rjpastor
12-31-2009, 04:01 PM
Impressive skills/build

Fred_M1010
01-03-2010, 01:14 PM
Thats cool my ansestors are from Norway and Sweden both. Someday when Im rich and famous I would like to travel there.

I feel the same about visiting America, but I have realized that if I am to visit all the parts of it that I'd like to see, it would take a couple of years, and as a farmer it's hard enough to take a week of...
So it will probably never happen :(

Impressive skills/build
Thanks, but I'm afraid I'm not so impressed with my own skills at the moment...:o
When drilling for hydro-assist in the front cap on the steering-box,
I thought it was just the threads that was a weak link.
So I thought I had adressed that when I used a nut on the inside.

But recently I got very aware that by just drilling a hole in the cap, it gets weakened enough to break by the hydraulic pressure (when you least want it) :o
You could say my arms were pretty tender after getting the truck out of the woods:crazy:

Fortunatly I had an extra cap at home so I could fix it,
so I just swapped cap, removed the ram and plugged the lines for now.

Now I've been out wheeling the crap out of it the last two days.
I've really had fun, but damn do I miss that hydro-assist :doah:

Snowy wheeling videos coming up....:D

AJMBLAZER
01-03-2010, 01:45 PM
Snowy wheeling videos coming up....:D
Cool!

Fred_M1010
01-04-2010, 02:37 PM
Here we go :D
EHtG6ThRA-o


ZnyzLoNoQho


This sand-hill was stubborn, but I had my mind set :D
i_fPJ2oQcpo

StevoandaRedK5
01-04-2010, 02:49 PM
awesome.

sweetk30
01-04-2010, 06:06 PM
god i miss snow bashin fun. :doah:

lucky you. :bow:

AJMBLAZER
01-04-2010, 06:39 PM
awesome.
x2!

All that fun AND on your own land too.
I hate you.:wink1:

POORBOYK5
01-04-2010, 06:42 PM
Nice rig and nice snow Bashin'!

c'mon sweetk30 you get some good snow up in the North East! I just came from the MA/VT/NH border. we always had some good snow to bash!

sweetk30
01-04-2010, 07:08 PM
check my zip 14845. ny pa upstate area.

then i am in the eye of the needle here. 2 big mountion ranges i live in the valley of them. snow comes down the pipe and splits 1 hr before me. then groups back 1 hr past me.

i have to drive a good hr around to get real snow.

unless we get a good storm up from the south.

and that last big one week or so ago. just skimmed me by 20 min or so for no snow to speek of. :mad:

Fred_M1010
01-06-2010, 03:30 PM
I just received this picture in a text-message from a friend:
http://forumbilder.se/images/902010111300Pcf88.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
He recorded some of the videos this weekend,
and now he has made a new steeringbox-cap for me.
Thats a true friend :waytogo:

Thanks Robert :bow: :bow: :bow:

original balzer
01-06-2010, 03:39 PM
nice looking cap its awesome to have friends that can do stuff like that.


< currently seaking such friends

OffRoad
01-06-2010, 09:13 PM
awesome snow vids. i like how rough your bed is.

xCaliK5x
01-06-2010, 10:19 PM
Wow, what fun. You should run some aircraft cable from your brush guard to the to of your roof to get those branches up and over the glass.

is that your bed/rocker flapping around on the drivers side??????

Fred_M1010
01-07-2010, 03:02 AM
Wow, what fun. You should run some aircraft cable from your brush guard to the to of your roof to get those branches up and over the glass.

is that your bed/rocker flapping around on the drivers side??????


That cabel idea, sounds really good :waytogo:

I think the whole bed is flapping...
The cab is in pretty good shape (rust-wise), but I think the paint is all that is holding the bed together :o

frikenwoodro
01-20-2010, 12:18 PM
Got any pics on the upper rear shock mounts? and what size shocks did you use?

OffRoad
01-20-2010, 01:11 PM
I like how flappy your bed is. It's beater-tastic.:laugh:

Fred_M1010
01-21-2010, 02:29 AM
Got any pics on the upper rear shock mounts? and what size shocks did you use?
I used the stock mounts.
Here you can see one of them:
http://forumbilder.se/images/7d120101023199672.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The rear shocks are Procomp 926505 with 11" stroke.
I first thought I would need a longer stroke, but since they sit at an angle, and are pretty close to the axles center as well,
they don't need to be very long to allow a good flex.

Fred_M1010
02-20-2010, 01:34 PM
Some more winter-videos :D

YtNJrgZ1tyM

LNKnVUAWBo4

86chevyk10
02-20-2010, 02:49 PM
love the truck! love the wheelin! :bow:

dfl701
02-20-2010, 03:50 PM
i think part of your bed is about to fall off in that second video:D

AJMBLAZER
02-20-2010, 07:16 PM
Man, is it just the video recorder or is yours very quiet in the cab? Mine's FAR louder than that.

Love the vidoes, awesome again!

Ronnie4wd
02-21-2010, 09:28 AM
We need to go wheelin together SOON

cuervo
02-21-2010, 12:59 PM
Move to some where warmer!!!

As Sam Kinison said, we have deserts, but we don't fuc ken live in them!

Fred_M1010
02-22-2010, 03:35 AM
Thanks guys, I do my best to keep you entertained :D

Move to some where warmer!!!

As Sam Kinison said, we have deserts, but we don't fuc ken live in them!

Nah, I like the snow.
Well maybe not so much yesterday, when I had to shovel the snow of the roof of my barn :doah:
But the worst thing is, it's now so deep (3-4') so I can't go wheeling anymore:(

We need to go wheelin together SOON

I'm afraid I don't have any means of transportation, but you're welcome to come to Säffle anytime!
I might try to go to the chevy-fullsize offroad event this summer though.

Man, is it just the video recorder or is yours very quiet in the cab? Mine's FAR louder than that.

Love the vidoes, awesome again!

I dunno, but both intake and exhaust are stock on mine, so maybe it is a little quiet...:dunno:
I will probably open up the exhaust soon though :cool:

AJMBLAZER
02-22-2010, 05:08 AM
Huh.

I've added a cold air tube from the core support to the air filter housing and Cherry Bomb mufflers instead of the factory mufflers...and it was loud before. Mine just clanks. Does yours have firewall and hood insulation?

Fred_M1010
02-22-2010, 05:37 AM
hmm, I can't recall having any insulation, but I'll check that...

It could be that I'm used to the noise-levels of the cumminsdiesel in my dodge.
That one have hardly any insulation.
The PO teared it down to pieces when he imported it from the US (to avoid taxes and fees :rolleyes:).
And I guess he didn't think insulation was very important when he put it back together again,
it didn't even have the rubber-grommet for the transfercase-lever, when I bought it...

When I think about it, it could also be that the whole undercarriage of the K30 is covered by a 1' layer of sound-deadening ice and snow :haha:

AJMBLAZER
02-22-2010, 06:42 PM
That could be it then!

FWIW I've heard putting the sound deadener under the hood quiets it down a lot so I was wondering if yours has it. Could also just be the camera's mic not picking up the sound.

Fred_M1010
03-30-2010, 07:47 AM
I got a dana 60 E-locker in my mailbox yesterday:D
http://forumbilder.se/images/8f920101032206af5.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Unfortunately I ordered new bearings and shims from another place, so I'll probably have to wait a couple of weeks before I can install it :(

In the meantime I've started to work on the electrical system, and preparing for relocating the batteries to the bed.
I will keep the 24V system.
So sorry Ronnie, the starter is not for sale
http://forumbilder.se/images/ed0201011263233dc.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I've also installed new poly-bushings for the front springs.
I hope this will be enough to cure the side-ways wandering.

Once again I enlisted the help of my good friend Robert, to help me with some turning.
We made spacers for the bushings.
http://forumbilder.se/images/548201083143P693c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/f48201083213P40ad.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I used washers previously, but that won't work well with poly-bushings.
The spacers needs to be at least the same outer diameter as the bushings.
The ones in the front I had to tweak some on the outboard surfaces since the hangers aren't perfectly flat.

Strangely enough, one of the springs had a 1.5" eye in one end and a 1.75" eye in the other.
We made an adapter with a good press-fit, so we could use 1.5" bushings everywhere
http://forumbilder.se/images/218201083117P27b8.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

rob h
03-30-2010, 08:48 AM
I did the same with the poly bushings then .250 washers to take up the space. I like the idea of the flat steel welded between the shackles on an angle seems better than just straight would work better since it would take longer to hit on the frame if it ever made it that far. Let me know when you get the locker in and how you like it, id like to do that and get drive slugs. For the hood insulation, mine didnt have any either when i bought the truck.

Fred_M1010
03-31-2010, 12:56 AM
Thanks, I'll be back with a report as soon as possible (I hope):)

Fred_M1010
04-18-2010, 05:52 AM
Now I've received some stuff I ordered from WFO-concepts.
(The steering arm spacer is for my dodge :o)
http://forumbilder.se/images/3f320101141089961.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Since the axle doesn't sit in the center of the spring when using 56" springs,
I've really needed to adress my front pinion angle.

First I measured my caster-angle, by measuring the angle of my steering arm.
It was 12 degrees, and I think it's about 8 degrees stock.
I've heard that some people have as little as 3 degrees, but I bought 6 degree shims, so I would get 6 degrees of caster.

Since I have a dana 60 I need two shims for the passenger-side,
so the bolts or studs goes through the springplate at right angle.

I choose to get them from WFO, since they designed them to be bolted to the springpack with the centerpin,
and also because all others I've seen only sells them in pairs.

Unfortunately the recessed area wasn't big enough to fit a M10 nut
(I'm using class12.9 M10 bolts with grinded heads for centerpins)
So I had to mill that out on one if them.
http://forumbilder.se/images/4972010102715c89a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
But they have informed me that they will fix this in the future.

I also decided to add a pair of slightly shortened overload leafs while I were at it.
http://forumbilder.se/images/f2720101027301a14.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I soon realized that the centerpins gets sligthly relocated because of the angle-shims.
So I had to mill out the centerpin holes in my spring plates some
http://forumbilder.se/images/2a720101028011be0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
I've done the milling myself this time, if you're wondering why it looks like crap:o

You can calculate how much the centerpins moves, so you don't have to guess about how much to mill.
Just to show of my wicked MS-paint skills, I made a couple of drawings:rolleyes:

Driver-side:
http://forumbilder.se/images/77720101027437aed.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
The centerpin moves forward according to this formula:
D=R*sin a
R=the radius of the axletube plus the height of the spring perch (11cm),
and the angle "a" is the same as the shim angle (6 degree)
So, D=11,5mm

And the passenger-side:
http://forumbilder.se/images/bf72010102752736f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
Here the centerpin moves BACKWARDS instead
D=L*sin a
L= The thickness of the spring-pack measured along the centerpin (in my case 8cm),
and the angle "a" is still the same as the angle-shim.
So, D=8,4mm


I've also cut down the kingpin-cap and welded it to the steering arm,
as I should have done from the beginning.
Thanks for the reminder, MTBLAZER89 :waytogo:
http://forumbilder.se/images/0a720101028109cb7.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

rob h
04-18-2010, 09:58 AM
The bolt in axle shims worked well for my spring swap too, instead of the raised steering block i bought a thicker arm that had the raise built in, that was for my crossover to gain clearance.

Fred_M1010
04-18-2010, 11:40 AM
I don't really like the idea of a steering arm spacer,
but I couldn't find any raised steering arms that were designed for regular push-pull steering.
And I don't feel the need for crossover on the Dodge.

I'm planning on using an adjustable drag-link from a Chevy.
I think it would be possible if i'll swap the sector-shaft from a Chevy 4wd steering box,
so I can use the angled style Chevy pitman arm.

I might get a pitman arm that's dropped as well,
and mill down the spacer an inch or so instead...

Fred_M1010
05-15-2010, 04:21 AM
I like how flappy your bed is. It's beater-tastic.:laugh:

Thanks, but I'm afraid I have to disappoint you, I've found a new bed for it ;)
I have some plans to make the K30 street-legal in the future, and the old bed would never pass the yearly inspections.
http://forumbilder.se/images/0952010120337128a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/d0520101215034ec0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
(And I got a reason to pic-whore my show-car like dodge :D)

The bed came from a cummins diesel equipped Chevy C30...
I hope some of that torque will rub off on my tired 6.2 :rolleyes:

Ronnie4wd
05-15-2010, 07:50 AM
Could the bed be from this one :
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2933/4121/7332060001_medium.jpg

Fred_M1010
05-15-2010, 08:54 AM
I think so, it's been stripped down for some time now, so I can hardly remember what it used to look like.
But there are not many trucks out there with regular beds and the narrow dually axle...

It was a friend of mine who converted it 10 yrs ago or something (Mattias M).
I think he bought a truck or two from you if I'm not mistaken..?

But it's not the bed on the picture anyway, the present owner of the C30 swapped it out earlier,
so this one is just a regular 8' bed.

Fred_M1010
05-29-2010, 03:29 PM
Here's a short update:

I've relocated my batteries to the bed now.
First I thought about making a box for the batteries, but I went an easier route,
since I'll redo it anyway when I swap beds later

I welded some square tubings to the bed to keep them from moving around.
http://forumbilder.se/images/209201091223P322c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I mounted the cut-off switches on a piece of sheetmetal, that I bolted to the bed.
http://forumbilder.se/images/6f9201093912P9297.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
(There's one switch for 12V and one for 24V)

Here's how I strapped the batteries down
http://forumbilder.se/images/ef9201093857P8958.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The end result:
http://forumbilder.se/images/cc9201091246Pd11c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

AJMBLAZER
05-29-2010, 09:04 PM
Random but why have you kept the 24v?

Fred_M1010
05-30-2010, 03:25 AM
A 24V starter requires only half the current compared to a 12V starter.
Therefor I'll not get as much voltage drop due to the long wires.
And I'll probably get a 24V winch for the rear later on for the same reason.

Too bad I got a 12V winch for the front though...:doah:
(I was planning to convert it to 12V-only, when I bought that one)

It don't have the regular crappy M1010 24V-system though.
It's been converted at some time to be more like the M1008 and the rest of the CUCV's

AJMBLAZER
05-30-2010, 05:29 AM
Okay, I gotcha.


Come to think of it I bet the issue of "it's parts are unique" is less of an issue for you over there than it is for us here.

ryoken
05-30-2010, 06:27 AM
good stuff.......


I had considered 24v winches tied into my system... thats one area they really help on... the 12v are just so readily available on the used market i decided against it...

Fred_M1010
05-30-2010, 03:33 PM
It's alive again!!! :D
http://forumbilder.se/images/a502010103815e10d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/091201013726Af7da.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I've spent the day giving the finishing touches to the electrical system
I also had the time to do a little test-drive when I was done.

The poly-bushings helped a lot with the wandering steering.
Not enough that I would like to use it as a daily driver though...
But it's in the forest it belongs anyway, so who cares :D

I've also noticed a very disturbing thing with the E-locker.
It disengages for a short while, when you switch between going forwards and backwards :eek1:
That can't be good when rocking back and forth to get unstuck :mad:

Ronnie4wd
05-30-2010, 10:27 PM
If it disengages i bet you will break your stubs soon :(

Fred_M1010
05-31-2010, 01:59 PM
Yeah, it can't be good, thats for sure...

Tonight I did some more cutting of the fenders.
Before:
http://forumbilder.se/images/ef1201092724P619e.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

After:
http://forumbilder.se/images/2a1201092734Pbec7.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I think it looks a little off :crazy:
But I'll be damned if it still rubs...


Btw, do you run any traction-aid in the front Ronnie?
If so, what are you using?

Fred_M1010
06-01-2010, 12:40 PM
Today I threw together a rear bumper using some more scrap metal.
I am planning on getting a winch for the rear later on, and will probably do something similar to what I did in the front.

But I needed something temporary for the time being to attach straps to, and I could use some protection for rear hatch(sp?) as well...

I think I've really outdone myself in redneckishness this time:haha:


http://forumbilder.se/images/7a201081318PMde8c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/97201081328PM1a4b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/82201081257PM670c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/ae201081312PM506a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

AJMBLAZER
06-01-2010, 03:34 PM
Shecksy!

Ronnie4wd
06-01-2010, 10:35 PM
Btw, do you run any traction-aid in the front Ronnie?
If so, what are you using?
Detroit locker no-spin both front and rear ;)

Fred_M1010
06-02-2010, 02:29 AM
Detroit locker no-spin both front and rear ;)

Cool:cool1:

If you compare it to an open front diff, do you have much more understeer now?

The reason I'm asking is mine got quite a bit more understeer when the E-locker is engaged, but mostly when I'm coasting.
When I hit the skinny-pedal I think it turns just fine even when engaged.
(at least on low-traction terrain)

And a detroit-locker should disengage when you don't apply throttle, right?

Fred_M1010
06-03-2010, 01:29 PM
Yesterday I took a little trip along a short section of the power lane I mentioned in the winch anchor thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271811

http://forumbilder.se/images/1d201093420PM58a7.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/12201091032PM128f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

It doesn't look so bad but I actually got stuck here:o
http://forumbilder.se/images/81201091050PM2421.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The tracks where so deep and there was a log in the middle, so I got hung up on both axles...

I did a whole lot of rocking back and forth, before I gave up and used the winch.
(Luckily I was near the edge of the power lane, so there where some trees nearby)
I never noticed any unlocking of the E-locker, so maybe it isn't so bad after all :)

http://forumbilder.se/images/fc201091110PM6d7b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/4e201091120PMdb93.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

BUDDY
06-03-2010, 02:38 PM
Nothing lame about those pictures at all!! Looks like fun! Especially the stuck part at the end. Very nice that you were prepared for the issue. That's half the flippin battle!!

Big thumb way up!!

http://www.bigskeff4.homecall.co.uk/thumbs%20up.jpg

Later,
Buddy

Fred_M1010
06-04-2010, 02:00 AM
Thanks! :D

DieselWarrior
06-07-2010, 09:44 PM
Fred,
I browsed through the pages, and you have some great fab skills man! I really like your work!

And your truck looks, and runs awesome!

Thanks for sharing all the pix, vids and info! I enjoyed it! (I also subscribed to your youtube account)

Take care,
andrew

okieraptor
06-08-2010, 12:01 AM
Man I wish I could find a old dodge with a cummins in it that nice near me.

Fred_M1010
06-08-2010, 04:12 AM
Thanks alot guys, I'll try to post up some more wheeling vids soon :D

I got really lucky to score a dodge like this in Sweden.
But I didn't think it was so hard to find in the US.:confused:

AJMBLAZER
06-08-2010, 04:23 AM
Rare truck + rust in half the country = Bye bye.

76zimmer
06-08-2010, 03:14 PM
Rare truck + rust in half the country = Bye bye.


Great description AJ...

Fred, you are the no-buck fab king:D

okieraptor
06-08-2010, 05:09 PM
Rare truck + rust in half the country = Bye bye.

True story! Up north there rusting away, and down south everyone hangs on to them till there's nothing left. Or there nice and want 5 grand or more for them.

Fred_M1010
06-09-2010, 06:01 AM
Fred, you are the no-buck fab king:D
Thanks, thats the best compliment I've ever got:D
Damn, now I'm blushing :o


True story! Up north there rusting away, and down south everyone hangs on to them till there's nothing left. Or there nice and want 5 grand or more for them.

I totally understand if people are hanging on to them;)
But I'd be really happy if I found one for 5 grand
I paid about $7500 for mine and that was a steal, being in Sweden.
But they're pretty hard to find here, since Dodge didn't export any to Sweden officially.
But it's not impossible, just among my friends we've got five 1st gen Cummins Dodges (two being 2wd though)

But then there's this stupid rule that say you can't drive them on a regular drivers licens,
you need the same license you'd need for a large semi...:(
Same thing goes for all 1-ton pickups here, and even some 3/4-tons HD:s
Unless you manage to get them registered as a 1/2 ton, or 3/4 ton LD :whistle:

76zimmer
06-09-2010, 09:27 AM
wow, is that because of the towing capabilities of the HD's?

I've seen some junk going down the road that shouldn't have been. And a lot of people run as close towing a heavy trailer, as they do if the truck was by itself.
I hate it when people pass me, when I'm towing, then pull over right in front of you and slow down, or even hit the brakes on the highway, so they can make their exit.
f**kwads!

Fred_M1010
06-09-2010, 10:31 AM
It's the weight of the vehicle with full load (gvwr?) that's the problem.
There's a limit at 3500kg (~7700lbs) for light trucks and automobiles.
But it is sometimes possible to remove leafs for example to lower the trucks weight rating...:rolleyes:

To be able to tow more than a shopping cart you need yet another license as well...:mad:

I guess it's good that there is a limit for towing, but the rules and regulations are so f**ked up here.
If you only have a regular drivers licens you're allowed to tow more with a small car than with a big truck,
it's more important that it's below a certain weight limit, than it is to have braking power:screwy:

mtnman
06-12-2010, 09:42 AM
It will be like that here all too soon............

Fred_M1010
06-12-2010, 12:32 PM
It will be like that here all too soon............
That sucks,
congrats on the 1000posts btw.:D



I went out on a little wheeling-trip again this morning :D
http://forumbilder.se/images/242201081220P43ff.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/6b2201081240P0e40.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/da2201081312P1f86.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/c02201081328P2d3b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/a42201081349P3d99.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/952201081403P729f.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/0f2201081416Pe0b3.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I have some videos too, but they need some editing first.

mtnman
06-12-2010, 01:34 PM
Looks like it rains there ALOT.... didn't even realize my post count had gotten there!



















































PAD

Fred_M1010
06-12-2010, 05:08 PM
It's usually not that much rain in the springtime here, just had bad luck this morning...

So here's the vids.
I3QlfDyvEz0
This is the hill in the pictures above.
Next time I'll try releasing the E-brake when winching :doah::haha:
I really need to check the linkage for the transfercase also, it keeps popping out of LO all the time :(

Here's some more...
F-yVxOiVHWY
If you here a "pft"-sound, that's one of my front shocks.
I think I shot it before I moved the bump-stops...

I also heard a new squeeking noise when I watched the videos.
Maybe a dry wheel bearing or U-joint...? I'll have to check that out...

Ronnie4wd
06-13-2010, 12:22 PM
Nice :bow:

Fred_M1010
06-18-2010, 02:44 PM
I've been out scouting some more trails today.
Soon I can call it an Offroad Park:D
(You'd be the first to get an invitation, Ronnie)
I took some pics with the cell-phone, but I can't find the computer cord for it :(


I've adjusted the shifter-linkage, and it seems to work.
It didn't pop out of low even once.
I've also diagnosed the squeeking sound.
It was the bed begging me to put it out of it's misery;)
But no such luck, I just bolted it down with 4 bolts instead of 3 :D



I've been thinking of building a winch anchor, to use when there's no trees around.
Yesterday I bought a boat anchor instead:rolleyes:

http://forumbilder.se/images/a47201065219Pbaa3.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/2f7201065239Pf6bd.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
That's a 1/2 liter (~1 pint) beer can for comparison

I'm pretty sure it will hold up (it weighs 44lbs), but we'll see if it digs down good enough...

Fred_M1010
06-18-2010, 03:25 PM
I found the cord for the cell-phone, so here's some poser-pics ;)
I don't think the flex has gotten much worse since I added the overload-leafs.
But then again, flex is mostly about droop I think.
http://forumbilder.se/images/86820101119056844.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/14820101119251b44.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/7b8201011195388f0.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/448201011201325bd.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I think I've managed to bend my tie-rod slightly also :o...

mtnman
06-19-2010, 07:25 AM
Time for High-steer!!

Fred_M1010
06-20-2010, 07:33 AM
Yeah, either that or a beefier tie-rod...
We'll see...

sixb
06-20-2010, 10:11 AM
Wow that front is flexy:DI can't wait to move my rear springs up front. Is your tie-rod still stock?

Fred_M1010
06-20-2010, 10:59 AM
Yes, it's a stock 1-ton tie-rod.
I have found some beefy material to make a new drag-link from, so I'll probably use it to make a beefier tie-rod as well.

Fred_M1010
06-27-2010, 02:13 PM
I saw this cool pic on PBB, of a truggy climbing a wall:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11570432&postcount=530
It looked so cool, I just had to try that...

I soon realized both my approach and departure angles sucks, though :(
But it worked with one tire at least:D


http://forumbilder.se/images/317201085418Pee1b.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/1a7201085451P34d9.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I was a little higher as well, but I didn't dare to crawl out of it to snap the pics then...:o


I really love being able to have both front and rear axles locked :saweet:

Fred_M1010
07-11-2010, 04:44 PM
Today I conquered 7km (~4miles) of the power lane :D
I haven't got much footage from it, but I'll probably return there again soon...

http://forumbilder.se/images/5912010114739edad.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I managed to get a log stuck between the front axle and the engine cross-member.
It ripped apart the wiring for the E-locker, and nearly killed the hoses for the ram assist.
Luckily I could fix it on place by stripping the wires and twisting them together,
and then isolate them with some duct-tape :o

http://forumbilder.se/images/5912010114850d0d2.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I got stuck one time in a swamp.

http://forumbilder.se/images/9b120101148156a68.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

So I tested using the boat anchor as a winch anchor.
It seemed to work really fine for a while, but then I killed one of my batteries :(

Fortunately I had some friends with ATV:s with me...

http://forumbilder.se/images/97120101150143769.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/f11201011501762aa.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)


Slightly humiliating..:o but it really worked! :D

Z-_FC-SupWk

Yesterday we made a little movie flexing it out as well:D

G9G-N4Wn6gA

Fred_M1010
08-29-2010, 03:26 PM
Today I scouted some more trails
I filmed it while driving, so it's a little shaky:o
FvcydWA0hms

munepit
08-29-2010, 03:44 PM
Cool video. You were looking for trails? Looked to me like you making youjr own trails! Was that a head cam? Looked pretty steady to me. Nice.

Fred_M1010
08-30-2010, 12:59 AM
Thanks, yeah by scouting I meant making :D
I held the camera with one hand, but tried to support it some against the roof.
Nothing I can recomend doing while wheeling though :zombie8:

DieselWarrior
09-01-2010, 06:58 PM
Whats the klickly switch? Im guessing locker switch.. Electric or pneumatic? It had a pretty orange glo! :thumb:

Fred_M1010
09-02-2010, 01:19 AM
Yes, it's for the front locker (Eaton E-locker).
One of my favorite mods so far :D

DieselWarrior
09-02-2010, 08:46 AM
Yes, it's for the front locker (Eaton E-locker).
One of my favorite mods so far :D
Mega Cool! Whats in the rear??

AJMBLAZER
09-02-2010, 09:08 AM
Factory Detroit.

Fred_M1010
09-02-2010, 06:10 PM
I hope you don't mind the way this thread has evolved from a build thread to a pic whoring thread:whistle:
Cause here's some more :D

I went out for a spontaneous little wheeling trip tonight on the trail I scouted this sunday.

http://forumbilder.se/images/6a201012257AM0e09.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

And we all know that spontaneous means trouble right:rolleyes:
At the top of the hill my front drive shaft broke:doah:

http://forumbilder.se/images/6d201012247AMf263.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

At least I had a really good parking brake:haha:

http://forumbilder.se/images/fd201012315AM070e.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I tried pulling myself out with the winch and 2wd...

http://forumbilder.se/images/8d201012338AM278c.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/40201012352AM7492.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

But finally the winch wire got loose from the winch drum :doah:

Then I enlisted a friend with a K20 to pull me out...
Here you can see how well he did :doah:

http://forumbilder.se/images/49201012403AM89de.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Once more I had to go and get the tractor...

Here's the drive shaft:
http://forumbilder.se/images/46201012432AM530d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/ed201012434AM11d4.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

I thought the front yoke consisted of one forged part, but now I realize that the splined part was only press-fitted a half inch into the yoke :eek1:
And the yoke looks really weak:eek1:
(It wasn't my welds that gave away)
I think I'll shorten whats left of the yoke and weld the square tube directly to the fork.

And here's the movie :D

QY3xPtjjZyE

DieselWarrior
09-02-2010, 06:22 PM
Holy Damage, Batman!

76zimmer
09-02-2010, 06:24 PM
I hope you don't mind the way this thread has evolved from a build thread to a pic whoring thread:whistle:
Cause here's some more :D
And here's the movie :D

QY3xPtjjZyE

Well ok Fred, but only cuz your in Sweden...:waytogo:


Nice recovery!

1BEATK5
09-03-2010, 12:00 AM
i do love the sound of brush screeeetching down the side of a truck. like nails on the chalkboard. ( first vid)
bad a$$ yo

Fred_M1010
10-02-2010, 11:59 AM
I fixed the drive shaft today.
This time I welded the tube directly to the "fork"
http://forumbilder.se/images/4b2201073728P51b0.jpg

Then I installed what was supposed to be a "heavy-duty" U-joint (Precision #280) :surepal:

Yeah right, heavy duty my ass!
I broke it almost right away :angry1:

http://forumbilder.se/images/d62201073737Pa386.jpg

Where can I get solid U-joints, without the grease holes?

MTBLAZER89
10-02-2010, 01:40 PM
Something isn't right if you snapped both sides like that. Even a 1310 can take a TON of tq before it will shear like that.

Almost looks like the shaft couldn't spin in the cap, or something bound up, or you got a very defective joint.

Ronnie4wd
10-02-2010, 01:54 PM
Something isn't right if you snapped both sides like that. Even a 1310 can take a TON of tq before it will shear like that.

Almost looks like the shaft couldn't spin in the cap, or something bound up, or you got a very defective joint.
X2 something else is wrong.
I have a 1310 in front and never broke one changed them when they were going bad but never broke one.
It seems like the problem was there when you broke the first time because that looks like something else is wrong too.
Is the shaft sliding ok and enough :confused:

Fred_M1010
10-03-2010, 06:25 AM
I think you're right guys.
The drive-shaft must have bottomed out :o

When I first designed the shaft it was OK.
I made it long so it would be as strong as possible, therefor it had a very small margin for bottoming out.
But I've installed angle shims to get the pinion up since then.
And the way I welded the shaft this time it got about 10mm longer when fully compressed as well.
So that must be it...



And here's the video of the carnage :D
N_Lx1fLzuU8

Fred_M1010
10-03-2010, 06:58 AM
btw congratulations on "GM of the month", Ronnie :waytogo:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276528

Ronnie4wd
10-03-2010, 10:13 PM
Thankyou.
Be sure to check your 208 if the shaft bottomed out.

Fred_M1010
10-04-2010, 03:32 AM
I checked it yesterday, and I think it's fine.
It didn't leak any oil at least:crazy:

Fred_M1010
10-23-2010, 12:56 PM
I've mounted a winch on my bed now....











































But maybe not for the purpose you had thought :D

http://forumbilder.se/images/402320107470714c8.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/6223201074649634f.jpg

Now it's the perfect moose hunting truck :deal:
Only 2 out of 11 mooses needed the use of an ATV to extract them....

mtnman
10-23-2010, 06:53 PM
YUM - fresh meat!

Fred_M1010
11-22-2010, 06:01 AM
Now I've installed a new 12000lbs 24V winch, instead of the old 10000lbs 12V.
It's a Runva EWP12000 2-speed winch.

First I disassembled the motor and put gasket sealant on all mating surfaces,
to waterproof it.

http://forumbilder.se/images/c2202010126440942.jpg

Then I disassembled the gearbox and changed the grease to a thinner type of grease.
I thought this would make it easier to extract the cable by hand, but I must say I didn't notice any difference.
It's just as much of a PITA now as it was before...:mad:

http://forumbilder.se/images/3820201012350b009.jpg

The motor was alot bigger than on my last winch, so I had to do some trimming...

http://forumbilder.se/images/2420201012740654d.jpg

There was a lot of material in the cap, so I don't think I've weakened it.

I also had to cut the frame some more, But I don't think it should be any problem since the winch cross-member stiffens it up

http://forumbilder.se/images/9b20201013132b9ac.jpg

The control-box got a new permanent temporary mounting:rolleyes:
This time on the passenger-side, so I could shorten the wires some more

What I didn't consider was that I have to drag the wire for the remote across the engine room when winching:doah:

I think I'll get a wireless remote later on...

http://forumbilder.se/images/f320201013150ebd9.jpg

It might look a little tight, but I've got almost 1/2" between the motor and the frame.

I guess I could have placed the winch with a slight offset to the passenger side,
but I like how the fair-lead sits right at the center,
where the recessed area for the license plate is.
And this truck IS all about the look :rolleyes:

http://forumbilder.se/images/ee20201013203a469.jpg

I also did some trimming of the bumper, so I can remove the lower winch bolts
without removing the bumper next time

http://forumbilder.se/images/6420201013240367f.jpg

I did a little testing of the winch after I installed it:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278380
And damn was it strong :eek1:

AJMBLAZER
11-22-2010, 07:26 AM
Psssst, your link goes to a post from 8 years ago about brakes.

Fred_M1010
11-22-2010, 11:09 AM
Fixed it now :doah:

twelvam
12-22-2010, 03:05 PM
just read through the entire thread, i'm really diggin all the pictures and videos you put up! nice trail rig for sure!

Fred_M1010
12-23-2010, 02:06 PM
Thanks, I like sharing the fun with you guys!

We have a saying in Sweden that goes something like this:
"Shared fun is twice as fun" :D

magik235
12-23-2010, 02:42 PM
Thanks, I like sharing the fun with you guys!

We have a saying in Sweden that goes something like this:
"Shared fun is twice as fun" :D
Keep sharing. I like your thread.

Subpilot
12-27-2010, 09:04 PM
I love your build! Lots of cool info to be gleaned! I must say though, the John Deere tractor being used to pick up the truck adds a nice touch :) Did it myself today!

DokWatson
12-27-2010, 10:28 PM
Sat here and read the whole thread start to finish. Awesome build, my CUCV is very similar. Sweden looks just like Alaska too.

Fred_M1010
12-30-2010, 04:08 AM
Thanks guys, I think Sweden is on about the same latitude as Alaska.
But we might have a slightly warmer climate, thanks to the Gulf stream.
Not that you would think that, this winter though...
It's been bl**dy freezing so far :doah:

hitman34
01-07-2011, 08:36 PM
Awesome write up, I just became a member just for this thread, made being on barracks duty liveable...for the moment

mtnman
01-08-2011, 08:04 AM
Thanks guys, I think Sweden is on about the same latitude as Alaska.
But we might have a slightly warmer climate, thanks to the Gulf stream.
Not that you would think that, this winter though...
It's been bl**dy freezing so far :doah:

That "Global Warming" thing is a tough one.... :haha:

76zimmer
01-08-2011, 05:43 PM
Awesome write up, I just became a member just for this thread, made being on barracks duty liveable...for the moment

Welcome Hitman...

Freds got a tough truck here.

Fred_M1010
01-09-2011, 01:35 PM
Awesome write up, I just became a member just for this thread, made being on barracks duty liveable...for the moment

Thanks a lot, I'm really glad you liked it :)

That "Global Warming" thing is a tough one.... :haha:

Yeah, it feels more like "Global Cooling" :rolleyes:
But now the cold has finally begun to loosen it's grip at least here.
It even thawed today :doah:

Well, well, what would we do if we didn't have the weather to complain about...:rolleyes:

mtnman
01-10-2011, 04:54 AM
HAHA... I have often wondered if the people who live in places like The Carribean Islands complain about the weather like the rest of us.....

Fred_M1010
01-10-2011, 04:35 PM
I know I would :whistle:
Heck, I complain about the heat when it's over 75 degrees F over here in the summer :rolleyes:
I think my comfort zone (read: optimal wrenching temperature) is between 20-70 degrees.

76zimmer
01-10-2011, 05:51 PM
Fred, what is your humidity like over there.
I find the lower the humidity the higher the temp I can handle.
In Moab it was 90+ most days, and negligible humidity....very warm, but not miserable like in MI. We usually have a lot of humidity to go with the heat. A low humidity day in MI is like 50-60%. Summer temps here are in the 80's June through Early September, with humidity about 60-80%.

Fred_M1010
01-11-2011, 01:40 AM
I really don't now any numbers, but I believe the humidity is around "average" here...:dunno:
Neither dry or wet

DokWatson
01-14-2011, 11:47 PM
Haha, my optimal wrenching temperature is when I can't see my breath :haha:

Fred_M1010
01-30-2011, 01:04 PM
Haha, my optimal wrenching temperature is when I can't see my breath :haha:
Yeah, that's a good rule of thumb :D



I got an urge to do some wrenching tonight, and I've been meaning to do something about that enormous lip under the axle-housing of the 14bff axle:

http://forumbilder.se/images/570201175952P37ad.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/8a0201180004Pd834.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/a80201180046P4e34.jpg

So I fetched my 9" angle-grinder, and wrestled with it for a while...
Here's the result:

http://forumbilder.se/images/390201180017P23ef.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/0b0201180022Pec37.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/f20201180104Pec41.jpg

http://forumbilder.se/images/440201180111P0fc2.jpg

Here's my new paperweights :rolleyes: :
http://forumbilder.se/images/cb0201180122Pd4ff.jpg


I've also made the most advanced modification so far...



























































A bale twine remote for my 24V cut off switch :whistle:
http://forumbilder.se/images/e80201180129Pe7f7.jpg

I have some problems with my starter not disengaging after I've started it.
This was an easy fix for the time being...

76zimmer
01-30-2011, 03:11 PM
Nice shave job. I made a lot smoother transition on mine too. It was like an anchor hanging there....

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww96/64zim/Moby%20Dick/HPIM1363.jpg



HI-Tech redneck stuff right there on the wire pull Fred....keeps it going though right?

COCHEV
01-30-2011, 05:35 PM
wow, Fred, that rear diff has seens some action! A good testiment to the stoutness of a the 14 bolt FF.

Ronnie4wd
01-30-2011, 10:52 PM
I did the 12v thing that I said i'd never do so I've got a 24 starter for you if you want.
It is working fine just the bolt for the front bracket is broken but it holds the starter together. Call me if you need it.
And about the shaving it comes with years of wheeling :whistle:.

82355
01-30-2011, 11:49 PM
hahaha

I was just going to write, "you realize he is on the other side of the ocean". Then I looked at your Location. Now I am the idiot.

Martin

Fred_M1010
01-31-2011, 12:59 AM
I did the 12v thing that I said i'd never do so I've got a 24 starter for you if you want.
It is working fine just the bolt for the front bracket is broken but it holds the starter together. Call me if you need it.
And about the shaving it comes with years of wheeling :whistle:.

Thanks, I might do that.

Fred_M1010
01-31-2011, 01:20 AM
HI-Tech redneck stuff right there on the wire pull Fred....keeps it going though right?

It sure does :D

magik235
01-31-2011, 08:49 PM
Good improvements

63chevyll
12-25-2011, 05:40 PM
I love bringing old threads back to life. These builds are so much fun to read. Wonder how he is doing a year later

imiceman44
12-25-2011, 05:45 PM
I love bringing old threads back to life. These builds are so much fun to read. Wonder how he is doing a year later
He is doing fine, he's been posting in some threads in the past month.
The priject is another question, he's been looking at a FORD F550 axle set .
:whistle:

63chevyll
12-25-2011, 06:54 PM
Ha, and Duh on me.

I clicked on his Sig to find this, I guess I meant the truck

imiceman44
12-25-2011, 08:00 PM
Ha, and Duh on me.

I clicked on his Sig to find this, I guess I meant the truck

:D :waytogo:

Fred_M1010
12-26-2011, 03:59 AM
The truck is holding up pretty good, except for some slipping in 3rd gear.
I'm currently trying to get some time to work on my Camaro,
so I haven't had much time for either wrenching or wheeling with the K30 lately :(

I do have some more stuff planned for it, but I don't know when I'll have the time...

Next in line will probably be beadlock wheels.
http://forumbilder.se/images/8102011111638cb12.jpg
I've already got a set of rings cut out, from a local school.


The ford axles will probably end up under my 2500 one day,
but that's in a distant future it seems...

Fred_M1010
08-22-2012, 02:54 AM
It's been crazy at work lately so I haven't been able to either wrench on it or wheel it much lately.
But the other day me and a friend took a ride to scout out an old forest road to a nearby lake.
The moose hunting season is coming up soon, and we need that road to extract the mooses.
But It's been used to forward lumber this summer, and it's been a really rainy summer here, so it didn't look pretty.
The rest of the team I hunt with said it would be impossible to drive there even with an ATV...
...So of course I had to try it :D

WCFLGWwxYHc
http://youtu.be/WCFLGWwxYHc

The terrain itself wasn't a problem, but I finally realized I need a beefier tie rod, as it bent up and broke of a hose for the steering ram :o
Next time I'll carry a spare hose so I don't have to walk home :doah:


http://forumbilder.se/images/a61201291914Pbd7d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

http://forumbilder.se/images/6c1201291933P57db.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

The rod has been bent before, but the ram has prevented it from bending too much backwards, and it hasn't bent so much upwards

So I had to leave it and come back a couple of days later with a new hose
I "adjusted" the tie rod some with the help from my winch and a winch-pulley

http://forumbilder.se/images/e71201292033P11e7.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

So finally we reached the lake :woot:

http://forumbilder.se/images/f21201295449P5a4d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)[/img]

So next update will probably be a tie-rod build...
I'm ordering a set of ES2010R/L TRE:s right now.

folkenheath
08-22-2012, 11:10 AM
The rest of the team I hunt with said it would be impossible to drive there even with an ATV...
...So of course I had to try it :D

I like your attitude, and nice pics/video!

Fred_M1010
08-23-2012, 02:14 PM
Thanks!:D

Fred_M1010
10-15-2012, 04:16 AM
Now I've finally fixed me a sturdier tie-rod
I found a seemless tube with a 40mm outer diametre and 8mm thickness in a friends scrap-pile (thats ~1.57"/0.31")
But I needed a pair of threaded ends for it...
So I once again enlisted my good friend Robert to help me out with the machining works, Thanks a lot! :waytogo:

First we evened out the end piece of the tube:
http://forumbilder.se/images/793201210182839a3.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Then we opened up the inner diameter some, otherwise the inner part of the threaded ends wouldn't have enough material.
We also tapered the end for a better V-shaped weld seam.
http://forumbilder.se/images/c4320121018470900.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Here are the ends before we threaded them.
We made a couple extra too, If I want to make a new drag link later on.
http://forumbilder.se/images/3d32012101854a69d.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

We made them so it was a press-fit between the ends and the tube, so we had to press them in first.
While I alredy had the help from a pro, I let him TIG-weld the ends to the tube as well.
http://forumbilder.se/images/0432012101903e03a.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

To make sure that we didn't screw up the threads while welding,
we waited and threaded them after the welding
I didn't want to use custom made TRE:s, so I got a set of ES2010R/ES2010L That's the same TRE:s used in my Dodge.
I borrowed a pair of 7/8-20 left and right taps from a friend (thanks Per!:waytogo:)
http://forumbilder.se/images/b332012102001d111.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

But I'm not completely satisfied with how the threads turned out,
I found info from several different sources on the internet that the hole should be 53/64" before threading, but I think that's too loose.
I think even 52/64 was too loose ...:confused:
Or maybe I just got crappy underdimensioned threads on my TRE:s...:dunno:
I bought a cheap set of Mevotechs
http://forumbilder.se/images/6e320121020169098.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Here's the new tie rod next to the old one.
http://forumbilder.se/images/8a32012102030eedf.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)
The locknuts I got from WFO when I bought DLE:s for my drag-link earlier.

Then I cut of the mounts for the ram, and welded them to the new rod.
http://forumbilder.se/images/90320121021439598.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

And after a splash of paint it looked like this 8)
But I should have painted it desert tan :o
http://forumbilder.se/images/eb32012102116e0dd.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

K5 Jess
10-15-2012, 04:21 PM
:popcorn:

76zimmer
10-15-2012, 05:31 PM
I like it Fred...always nice to have a machine shop buddy!!!!

schuttothrill
10-15-2012, 05:45 PM
http://forumbilder.se/images/eb32012102116e0dd.jpg (http://forumbilder.se)

Those 42s are so sweet!

magik235
10-15-2012, 07:53 PM
I like it Fred...always nice to have a machine shop buddy!!!!
:sign17:

max 02
10-16-2012, 08:22 AM
I always wondered why the body on your truck was so beat...now I see! :haha:

Cool videos.:thumb:

Fred_M1010
10-16-2012, 10:04 AM
beat, where???
I thought I fixed all dent last time I polished the paint, i must have missed one :doah::D

Fred_M1010
10-16-2012, 10:07 AM
Btw there will probably come a new video any day now.
I hunted moose last week, and a friend shot some films when I extracted some of them.
I'm just waiting for him to send them to me.

max 02
10-16-2012, 01:48 PM
Look'n forward to see'n more! :thumb::popcorn:

Fred_M1010
11-01-2013, 04:11 AM
I'm bringing this thread back from the dead :)

It seems I forgot to post the promised video from last years moose hunt :doah:
It has really crappy quality though :o
FfOuV6dLf4k

But now to some more recent activity...
The winch motor that I thought I waterproofed so well, turned out to be a pretty badly rusted inside when I needed it the most:mad:

But I found a new motor that's supposed to be IP68 proof :waytogo:
http://www.forumbilder.se/CFR79/dsc-0028.jpg

Then I decided to do something about the bedsides...
They were so badly rusted, I risked them falling of by themselves.
So I took preventive measures and cut them all off :D

I like the Kaiser M715 look it got :pimp:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17129474/DSC_0043.jpg

Then it was time for hunting season again, and i got a reason to do some sanctioned wheeling again :D
Here it is backed up at the slaughterhose for unloading of a days catch.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17129474/DSC_0033.jpg
Our moose quota was pretty low this year though, due to the establishment of a wolf pack in the area :mad:

I had a little mishap with the front driveshaft during the hunt...
I had to change the u-joint, and managed to crack an ear on the yoke while doing so :o
But I welded the ear together again and tack-welded the caps as a temporary fix...
And it holds together so far at least, after a couple of more days of hunting :whistle:
http://www.forumbilder.se/CFR79/dsc-0035.jpg

COCHEV
11-02-2013, 01:35 PM
Love the "new bed" look. Looks awesome actually. Have you seen in one of the recent mags where they use a military trailer as the bed? Similar look and super tuff.

Bowtie85
11-03-2013, 06:29 PM
Looks pretty rad to me :waytogo:

Fred_M1010
11-04-2013, 02:11 AM
Thanks guys!
I haven't seen the military trailer bed, but I think I can picture it :waytogo:
I have been thinking of building a new bed with a square tube "frame" and wooden sides :woot:
But that will probably not happen until this one falls off by itself :whistle:

AJMBLAZER
11-04-2013, 06:56 AM
http://image.europeancarweb.com/f/project-garage/m1008-cucv-and-m101a2-trailer-bed-conversion/44378250/m1008-bed-conversion.jpg

Fred_M1010
11-05-2013, 04:52 AM
Is that the one Cochev talked about?
Looks good anyway :waytogo:

AJMBLAZER
11-05-2013, 06:27 AM
It's been done a bunch of times. That was just the first good pic I found.