CK5 - The Full-Size GM Off Road Community

...here (http://www.marksalem.com/faqs/faq-35.htm) is some information we all need to know to avoid a costly repair of the system.

/forums/images/icons/smile.gif

The top chop took care of my rear air but that is good info.Back when I still had air if I got cold I always turned the front air down and let the rear run.

thats some rather useful information, although I question some of its validity... I don't believe the AC unit in the rear is going to kill the whole system, for several reasons... 1, the distance from the compressor to the rear air unit is approximately 20 feet, with most of the line outside the vehicle. so, it makes a 20 foot trip to the AC unit, goes through the AC cooling coil/condensor, then goes 20 feet back to the front of the vehicle, where it runs into the main line, which leads to the heat dispersion condensor in front of the radiator. from there, it goes to the compressor, where it gets compressed and redispersed. the only difference between the front and rear is the accumulator canister mounted on the firewall between the front output, and the heat dispersion core... I'll look at my dual air system tonite, and see whats what and where, but I believe the return T line is in front of the accumulator, and goes through it. anoher reason is the oil thats also running through the system. its not much oil, but then again, I don't think the freon would count as much if it were to get clear back to the compressor. I also believe there's an electrical valve switch that prevents freon from pumping to the rear AC unit unless its on, just like with the front one...

-Rich

i had worlds of problems with my first burbans a/c and didnt blow cold then recharged it and it worked great for awhile then stopped.
and is why i always tell people interested in buying a burban to get one with "manual a/c" (vent/wing windows for the younger crowd)
thanks for the info.
mike