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Old 05-01-2012, 08:12 PM
Posted in reply to folkenheath's post starting "I'm watching Eric! (que the little..."
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magik235
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Great project. I will be following it.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:30 PM
Posted in reply to magik235's post starting "Great project. I will be following it."
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I thought the same thing Heath, but I know so many guys running aluminum roller rockers with no problems. I know some guys who have had problems but they are few and far between it seems.

Going to have to see if the comp steel ones are in the budget.

I am going to ask the machinest about doing a little bowl blending, I have never done any kind of head work and I don't want to mess things up.

I know I can't afford for them to do it but some mild bowl blending seems pretty easy to do.

Everything that needs replaced on the heads will be, These heads I thought about just putting on the new short block but when I did the ol WD-40 trick with the valves closed I decided no way, way too much leakage coming through.

I am very excited to have this thing going and while the suspension will probably be in a couple years I do plan to start getting the 73 front flip ready to bolt on this winter
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:01 AM
Posted in reply to blazinzuk's post starting "I thought the same thing Heath, but I..."
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Eric for the bowl blend, if all you do is concentrate on smoothing the machining marks and rough spots, and don't try to reshape the ports there, you can't go wrong. (as long as you don't grind on the valve seat surface) You just want a smooth transition from the cast port all the way to the valve seat, no interupted flow or bumps or edges. I just use a die grinder with an oval carbide bit.

You may consider a gasket match of the intake ports and intake manifold as well with a mild gasket of course. The goal there is to smooth the flow between the intake and heads. With your low RPM you don't want to remove too much material or reshape the port really. The most gain will be from the bowl blend though. Also, a lot of times where the valve seat cutter cut into the head from the chamber side, there will be a step right outside the valve seat, I like to knock that off and smooth the flow into the chamber, very mild, and be consistent from one chamber to the next, you don't want different compression ratios. When working in the combustion chamber, if you can get your machinist to grind an old set of valves very thin so you can drop them in and they sit real low to protect the seat without being in the way, that helps, but it isn't necessary.
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I explained the difference between a motor that makes noise and a motor that makes power.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:22 AM
Posted in reply to folkenheath's post starting "Eric for the bowl blend, if all you do..."
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I've been running China made Speedway aluminum roller rockers in my 1988 V10 Suburban for a few years with no problems at all (yet).

Here is a set of BBC Stainless Steel roller rockers for cheap.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/B-B-Ch...rms,42434.html

They are only $10 to $20 more than the Speedway aluminum ones.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Blumax...rms,25414.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/396-45...rms,56356.html

These are the ones I am running on my Vortec heads.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Blumax...ads,25405.html

Martin
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:49 AM
Posted in reply to 82355's post starting "I've been running China made Speedway..."
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Originally Posted by 82355 View Post
Here is a set of BBC Stainless Steel roller rockers for cheap.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/B-B-Ch...rms,42434.html


Martin
Thats funny, I was going to say those are barely cheaper than the comp pro magnums I put on my BB, but after looking I see they stopped making them, now they only have the regular magnum, or the ultra pro magnum hollow type that are very expensive.

One thing to keep in mind Eric, roller rockers are a little noisy, they sound almost like a solid cam. I don't care myself, but if you do you might want to stick with a roller tipped set. (actually, I've never used a roller tipped set, are they still quiet like a regular stamped rocker?) At least a roller tipped set will reduce valve guide wear because of the reduced side load friction on the valve stem. You only really hear them at idle though, if its above idle its hard to tell.
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I explained the difference between a motor that makes noise and a motor that makes power.
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:11 AM
Posted in reply to folkenheath's post starting "Thats funny, I was going to say those..."
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Honestly I have Roller rockers on my camaro and stock rockers on my truck. I don't think I would waste the money on a truck motor. I would put the extra money toward a 4.25 cast scat crank.
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1979 k30, 454 226whp 298 wft/lbs sm465/205 60 lockrite/ detroit 14ff 4.10 39.5s 4" ord lift, 0 rates and some other junk.

1982 K30 6.2 155whp 355 wft/lbs,465,205 4.10s 60/70 DRW, hx35 forced induction.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:39 PM
Posted in reply to 80' 427's post starting "Honestly I have Roller rockers on my..."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80' 427 View Post
Honestly I have Roller rockers on my camaro and stock rockers on my truck. I don't think I would waste the money on a truck motor. I would put the extra money toward a 4.25 cast scat crank.
That is a valid point, although I don't consider roller rockers a waste of money(less friction is always good), I would have to agree the stroker crank would add more torque than the rockers if he has the money for the balance job and hasn't already bought the pistons.
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Originally Posted by TerryD View Post
I explained the difference between a motor that makes noise and a motor that makes power.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80' 427 View Post
Honestly I have Roller rockers on my camaro and stock rockers on my truck. I don't think I would waste the money on a truck motor. I would put the extra money toward a 4.25 cast scat crank.
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Originally Posted by folkenheath View Post
That is a valid point, although I don't consider roller rockers a waste of money(less friction is always good), I would have to agree the stroker crank would add more torque than the rockers if he has the money for the balance job and hasn't already bought the pistons.
You have to remember this has been a process for me.

Originally was going to use the heads as is, in fact I was going to use some smog heads that were already on the motor. So I got the bottom end done out of necessity because a ring broke when putting the pistons back in ( unreabuilt motor) left a huge scratch in the cylinder wall. But then I got the block back and realized how bad the heads actually were, no point in putting crap on something new being as it will make the new part not last as long and I don't want to spend the money twice.

In addition to that before I spent alot of money on rotating assemblys and balancing ( I have had bad luck with "factory" balancing always had to have it rebalanced) I would have seriously looked at picking up a 6.5 turbo and doing the vintage air ac.

If I could start all over again I wouldn't have done a single thing the same up to this point.

And now if I can't get this medical bill ( ER visit for kidney stones) figured out well its going to sit again
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by folkenheath View Post
That is a valid point, although I don't consider roller rockers a waste of money(less friction is always good), I would have to agree the stroker crank would add more torque than the rockers if he has the money for the balance job and hasn't already bought the pistons.
I agree the rockers will help but not as much on a tiny rv cam as they will on a mech roller. I just think the place to spend money on a towing engine is good heads, and displacement. Pick the cam for the rpm you are going to run and don't get all worried about hp. Tq is king and what pulls down the highway.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:07 PM
Posted in reply to 80' 427's post starting "I agree the rockers will help but not..."
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I have something to add about the summit roller rockers. I put a set on a 350 I built for mine/my best friends 84 K10. It's got 39k miles on it so far and no trouble ffom the rockers. With all this rain we've had around here. I'll bet that that engine is somewhere around 6k right this minute and it will be there till all the mudholes are dry or he breaks another 10 bolt.
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