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Old 05-03-2012, 11:35 PM
Posted in reply to 63chevyll's post starting "Hey 1Ton, I'm curious as to what method..."
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C/Kjunkie
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I can't add nothing that hasn't been said on the process of changing the cam, but I'm also throwing in a vote sum-1103. I am running it in a 84 K10 with a 350 and 700R4. I am very happy with it.

As for the roller rocker, I'm using the Summit 6905's in the same truck. They are Aluminum and run 200.00 a set. I'm using them in the same engine as the cam.39k miles and no complaints.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:17 PM
Posted in reply to 63chevyll's post starting "Hey 1Ton, I'm curious as to what method..."
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63chevyll View Post
Hey 1Ton, I'm curious as to what method your talking about.
Here it goes,
1. First I do not pre-oil my lifters… I adjust with the lifters dry, and then use a pre-oiler tool to pre-oil the entire engine after the adjustment is complete.
2. Bring the lifter to the base circle (lowest point of the cam lobe) of the camshaft. Even though the manual will tell you to do it in a certain order, the order does not really matter, as long as each lifter is at base circle for every valve you adjust.
3. Screw down the rocker arm nut while spinning the push rod between your fingers, until the rocker arm just barley catches the push rod, and stops allowing the push rod to spin.
4. Then turn the rocker arm adjusting nut only of a turn more, and it is set.

The reason I do not pre-oil my lifters is because with the lifters pumped up with oil every time you try to feel for the moment the rocker arm tighten against the push rod, the lifter pushes out oil and collapses, thus making it difficult to get a good feel for the proper tension on the push rod. I also only turn rocker arm nut turn more because when the lifter pumps up with oil it will take up the correct remaining slack needed; even though manuals will tell you more because they are assuming the lifters have oil in them. A running adjust, of course, is the ultimate after the vehicle is up and running.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:26 PM
Posted in reply to 1-ton's post starting "Here it goes, 1. First I do not..."
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That's the same way I've done it.

At least 1/2 dozen engines over the last 20 years. Between build ups, cam swaps, and head gasket jobs. Not a lot by any means but never had any problems.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:10 PM
Posted in reply to 496truck's post starting "That's the same way I've done it...."
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That's the same way I do it. The companion cyl method is what I call it
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:42 PM
Posted in reply to 63chevyll's post starting "That's the same way I do it. The..."
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Eo ic
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:48 PM
Posted in reply to 80' 427's post starting "Eo ic"
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Originally Posted by 80' 427 View Post
Eo ic
I prefer ec and i on overlap
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:35 PM
Posted in reply to 80' 427's post starting "Eo ic"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80' 427 View Post
Eo ic
I can understand the rational behind this method, and if I was building an engine to produce every nano-inch of power it could...I would use it, but cam lobe profiles do not change wether at ex. stroke or int. stroke. One reason I prefer the "companion" method is it decreases the amount of times the camshaft has to be turned over with only lube protecting it, and it works just fine with daily driven vehicles.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:40 PM
Posted in reply to 1-ton's post starting "I can understand the rational behind..."
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Whenever I put a cam in I just get it to the base circle for each cylinder. I think theres two cylinders that will have the lifters on the base circle at the same time.

Then set lash. I always did half turn past zero lash, any more than that was always too much for me. With a hydraulic cam like with the sbc I dont see any need to make it any more complicated.

Its been far too long since ive been to the internals of a SBC. Hell, Im probably almost a SBC virgin again its been so long.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:20 AM
Posted in reply to 79rustyk10's post starting "Whenever I put a cam in I just get it..."
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I just start at #1 TDC after compression stroke, then rotate the crank 90 degrees after adjust each cylinder and adjust them in the firing order. Easy, nothing to remember(I already know the firing order), always works, and no wasted time wondering if the valve is all the way closed or not. The cam ends up rotating almost one full revolution. I usually use the pushrod spin as well, and the 1/4 turn extra. I have found with this method I have never needed to readjust on a running engine. There is no point, the whole purpose of the hyd lifter is to take up the slack of warm vs cold and always be runnnig at zero lash.

Now if you accidentally adjust one of the lifters when a valve is even partially open then you will end up with a loose ticking lifter and have to readjust, but with this method that doesn't happen.
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I explained the difference between a motor that makes noise and a motor that makes power.
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