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Old 03-28-2005, 09:26 AM   #1
CyberSniper
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Hydraulic clutch problems (bleeding?)

So, I've got a hydraulic clutch now. After trying to bleed it for about an hour I still only barely get enough travel out of the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch when the pedal is pushed to the floor. I mean barely. The slave cylinder doesn't really start moving until the pedal has moved about 1.75".

I've never had a 465 so this might be normal but in all the other hydro clutch applications I've had they start disengaging the clutch about 3/4" of pedal movement.

Are there any tricks to it? Is there any adjustments to make anywhere?
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Old 03-28-2005, 09:57 AM   #2
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remove the slave cylinder, angle it at a 45* angle so the bleeder is up at the top. Crack it, then try bleeding like this. Always works.
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Old 03-28-2005, 10:23 AM   #3
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Is the master aftermarket? If it's like the one I originally bought, it may have a threaded section that you can lengthen/shorten, which affects pedal travel/clutch engagement/fork travel a LOT.

If not, the way I bled mine was pretty simple. Pull the cap off the reservoir. Make sure it's not going to go dry. Crawl under truck. Remove slave from bell. Keep it at an angle so the bleeder is the highest point. Crack the bleeder. Force the rod in a ways, seal the bleeder, let the rod out. Repeat.

I *think* if you leave the slave bolted to the bellhousing LOOSELY, you can probably use a large screwdriver between the clutch fork and slave cylinder rod to pry the rod back in, and that will still allow you to keep the bleeder "up".

If this is an old master cylinder or slave, they MIGHT have failed with the bleeding process. But try bleeding as suggested (bleeder being highest point on slave is really important) and see if that works first. I see I'm not the first response, but I found my way was very easy by myself, and works.
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"1985" K5: Vortec Headed Roller 355/MAF TPI/32 spline 465/205/10B-14SF/3.42's/33". Will be converted to MAP TPI in the future.

1987 K5: 350/TBI/700R4/208/10B F/R/3.73's/31" Someday will assimilate the "1985" drivetrain.

The answer to your carburetor problem is fuel injection.
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Old 03-28-2005, 10:25 AM
Posted in reply to dyeager535's post starting "Is the master aftermarket? If it's like..."
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sled_dog
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it really just sounds to me like he needs to do the bleeding process I noted, and you did as well.
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Old 03-28-2005, 10:36 AM
Posted in reply to sled_dog's post starting "it really just sounds to me like he..."
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dyeager535
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I agree, just wanted to point out the adjustable master cylinder rod issue I ran into. Clutch was bled fine, but pedal travel was excessive, and I'm sure if I played with it enough, (before I broke the rod by leaving slave unbolted and letting neighbor step on clutch pedal) I could have had the pedal travel to the floor without disengaging the clutch fully.

But stock this was not used, and my aftermarket replacement also did not use the adjustable rod, so it seems unlikely its the case here.
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"1985" K5: Vortec Headed Roller 355/MAF TPI/32 spline 465/205/10B-14SF/3.42's/33". Will be converted to MAP TPI in the future.

1987 K5: 350/TBI/700R4/208/10B F/R/3.73's/31" Someday will assimilate the "1985" drivetrain.

The answer to your carburetor problem is fuel injection.
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Old 03-28-2005, 12:07 PM
Posted in reply to dyeager535's post starting "I agree, just wanted to point out the..."
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Well, the entire clutch system is new except for the master cylinder, pedals, and bellhousing...

The master cylinder looks like brand new. The only dirt on it was from handling.

I'll give the "pull the slave cylinder off and bleed it dangling there" method a whirl. I asked my Dad if we should do that but we were just trying to get it on the trailer so I could get home. Didn't end up making it home until 1:15am after a nine and a half hour drive.

So far I have:
$115 into a clutch fork and line (from stealership)
$160 for a 12" Perfection clutch set
$67 into clocking ring
$76 for a 1 piece brand new flywheel
$72 for slave cylinder
$86 into a short style 465/208 adapter
$150 for the transmission and transfer case
$5 for a clutch reservoir from TJ
$40 for bellhousing/pedals/master cylinder
= $771
and that happens to be about 1/3 of what I have into the entire rig (tires included).


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Old 03-28-2005, 05:13 PM
Posted in reply to CyberSniper's post starting "Well, the entire clutch system is new..."
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when i bled mine, i did it like you normally do brakes. took forever to get fluid to the slave, then after getting all the air out, the pedal travel didn't feel right, had like 2" of nothing like yours. i drove it like 3 miles and the pedal got tighter, down to about 3/4 to 1". ive been driving on it ever since and have no problem what so ever with it. this was on factory 89 stuff also.

i also bled mine mounted fully to the bellhousing, my truck was leaned back slightly.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:15 PM
Posted in reply to big83chevy4x4's post starting "when i bled mine, i did it like you..."
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OK, so today I spent about an hour and a half and more than a pint of brake fluid later I have no better pedal. I tried both bleeding it on the trailer with the nose pointed up and with the slave cylinder dangling with the body at 45 with the bleeder at its highest point.

I've always had good luck with gravity bleeding...

I'm wondering if the rod that goes between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork is too short. I was contemplating getting a bolt and cutting it off then grinding similar points on it but half an inch longer than the one that's currently in there.

What do you guys think?
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:43 PM
Posted in reply to CyberSniper's post starting "OK, so today I spent about an hour and..."
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dyeager535
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If you've got the right bellhousing, slave cylinder and clutch fork, then messing with the rod is just a bandaid.

I haven't had to play around with my setup much, any chance the throwout bearing/fork aren't setup right? I know the hydraulic fork is different, positive it's the right part #? (I've got the parts diagram online if you have the part number to check against)

Another thing, do you have to compress the slave cylinder rod to install the slave? I just put mine back on the other day, and the rod needed compressed about 1/2 its length, which puts pressure on the fork.
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Dorian
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"1985" K5: Vortec Headed Roller 355/MAF TPI/32 spline 465/205/10B-14SF/3.42's/33". Will be converted to MAP TPI in the future.

1987 K5: 350/TBI/700R4/208/10B F/R/3.73's/31" Someday will assimilate the "1985" drivetrain.

The answer to your carburetor problem is fuel injection.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:48 PM
Posted in reply to dyeager535's post starting "If you've got the right bellhousing,..."
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if you have a vac pump try sucking the fluid down threw the system. this works to.
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